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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Ted Hammond 10/86
Page Views: 2,595 total · 18/month
Shared By: Josh Squire on Dec 12, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details


Follow a technical corner then move left and over the roof (crux). This is a very good climb and well worth doing. It even stays dry after a rain, so it should be doable whenever you get up there.


Follow trail to Orange Crush off of second parking lot. Near the top you will break right to New Wave. Sally's Alley is in the middle of New Wave wall. Look for a single SS glue-in at the base for anchoring the belayer


SS glue-in belayer's bolt then 9 more to LO. Might want to bring a shoulder length sling and a few longish draws to keep everything running well


lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
a really fun route that was both steeper and more challenging than it looked... i love the technical corner on the first half of the route... Jul 26, 2007
Tom Gnyra    
Fun and really varied, will redpoint next go!

If it feels hard, just stem. I think that's what saved me! Easier than Barking Spiders to the left. May 22, 2012
S. Neoh  
NICE. Congrats.
This route has a special place in my heart as it is the first .11 I ever led, after working the route for several weeks while being coached by a friend. Rated .11b BITD. Oct 27, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
Well Soon, you had balls to do this one as your first 5.11 lead.
Even if BITD it was 11b, I would agree with the 11c of the guidebook.
It would be like going for Venus as your first 5.12 skipping all the easy 12a like Outcast, Vaporizer, Valley Daze, Cosmic Monsters...
Good job!!! Feb 10, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Soon, this was your first 5.11 lead? You rock. The stemming section is pretty straightforward, but the roof and upper bit are a wicked pumpathon. Flail city. Harrrd. Aug 14, 2014
S. Neoh  
Nah, Nick and Eric, it was more like I was cocky and knew a lot less than I do now. TomA basically gave me the Beta for every move and I rehearsed the route quite a bit (thanks to his infinite patience) before redpointing it in '94 or '95.
I tried to repeat the route a number of years back and fell off at the bulge. It felt HARD! I guess I have forgotten most of the Beta and not nearly in the shape I need to be.
At the same crag, I enjoyed Valle Daze and Retro Spade a lot even tho I never redpointed any of them. Weevil too mroe recently. Retro Spade is often overlooked but is really good.
Oh, Social Outcast was my first .12 anywhere. Venus had always felt impossible to me, especially the hard move very near the end. Aug 14, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Had another go yesterday. Chains were two moves away. Sally wins again. Apr 17, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The top is a little different now, as a big chunk came out. All the bolts have been replaced with an anchor bolt added for the belayer at the base and two added to protect the easy but often wet start May 8, 2018

More About Salley's Alley

Fixed Hardware Report (1)