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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Ted Hammond 4/88
Page Views: 1,748 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This is a fantastic technical route with a nice tricky crux right before the chains but plan to work the whole time...

Start by stemming your way up the nice right facing corner to a sub-crux that when you make it through will get you the reward of a restful stay on a no hand stance... Another stem section heading up and left will put you in the business, a traverse left to gain the anchor... Just hope you have a little energy left in reserve to get you there...

Location

There are 2 similar looking right facing corners on this wall this route starts in the left one... If you need more info here it is also the third route from the left end of the cliff...

Protection

7 bolts to quick clip anchors...

Photos

S. Neoh  
If memory serves, best to clean this route on follow (on TR).
If have to clean on lower, I think removing the lowest two draws while rope is still thru the 3rd draw from the bottom helps. Then climb up a little to remove the third draw. Oct 16, 2017
Did anyone else have a heinous time cleaning this??
Any advice for next time when I go back for the send? Oct 16, 2017
Ian Grant
Cambridge
  5.11c
Ian Grant   Cambridge
  5.11c
Rumor has it that a nursing home resident escaped and onsighted this route last summer. Also heard that his super-attractive son fell all over it. This route will feel hard if you're used to Rumney jugs. A little bit of wisdom goes a long way. May 1, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a
Great description, Lee. This route is definitely "technical," "stemmy," and "tricky." The final six-foot-long traverse is the hardest part by far (lousy rounded handholds, no feet). What I like best about the climb is that it's not a pumpathon (like its neighbor, Salley's Alley, my nemesis). Barking Spiders is a great route for weak, old climbers! Aug 25, 2014