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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith, 8/98
Page Views: 1,652 total, 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 11, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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63 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Though this route ends half way up the cliff, I found it to be really fun with a challenging crux move and some cool 5.10 climbing mixed in....

Start to the right of Air and Pleasent Danger (5.8).... Climb up moderate moves to gain a 5.10ish section with a fun sequence.... Take a quick shake off and fire in to the crux where you will want to hit the holds just right to stick the mantel and clip the chains....

Thanks to its short length and the fact that a wall hangs over it, this route can be quite dry even in heavy rain....

Location

2nd route to the left.... Watch your step behind you there is a big drop.... You might want to anchor in on belay....

Protection

4 bolts to a rap station.

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
This is a pretty great Spbouldering route, and a great intro to what a 5.11 crux should feel like. Oct 5, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
This is a blast. Fun route that I just wish was a bit longer. May 9, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Attention newbie 5.11 leaders: this one's short, but it ain't easy! It's bouldery, and if you don't pull very hard (that's me), it really helps to know the sequence. The long right hand move under the big bulge is challenging. Aug 14, 2014
stephane Desbiens
sherbrooke
  5.11b
stephane Desbiens   sherbrooke
  5.11b
Super Fun !! Aug 13, 2011