Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith, 8/98
Page Views: 1,821 total · 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 11, 2007 with updates from Vertical Addiction
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Though this route ends half way up the cliff, I found it to be really fun with a challenging crux move and some cool 5.10 climbing mixed in....

Start to the right of Air and Pleasent Danger (5.8).... Climb up moderate moves to gain a 5.10ish section with a fun sequence.... Take a quick shake off and fire in to the crux where you will want to hit the holds just right to stick the mantel and clip the chains....

Thanks to its short length and the fact that a wall hangs over it, this route can be quite dry even in heavy rain....

Location

2nd route to the left.... Watch your step behind you there is a big drop.... You might want to anchor in on belay....

Protection

4 bolts to a rap station.

Photos

stephane Desbiens
sherbrooke
  5.11b
stephane Desbiens   sherbrooke
  5.11b
Super Fun !! Aug 13, 2011
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Attention newbie 5.11 leaders: this one's short, but it ain't easy! It's bouldery, and if you don't pull very hard (that's me), it really helps to know the sequence. The long right hand move under the big bulge is challenging. Aug 14, 2014
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
This is a blast. Fun route that I just wish was a bit longer. May 9, 2015
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
This is a pretty great Spbouldering route, and a great intro to what a 5.11 crux should feel like. Oct 5, 2015