Type: Sport
FA: Sport version -Ed Esmond 8/98, but found to have been previously lead trad by Tim Gotwells
Page Views: 10,867 total · 63/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


197 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A wakeup call for sporty sport climbers I'm sure... You will find all kinds of moves on this route that are hard to find elsewhere at Rumney... Thought provoking chimneys,and cracks, even a little off-width technique will come in handy... Most of the bolts are close together but there are a couple that might make someone shaky if they are used to Rumney's close bolts...

Start up the chimney, remember that using your feet well will help you conserve Energy for the strenuous moves at the top... As the chimney ends make moves left to a good stance and figure a way through a "boulder problem" where you have a few choices (i stay left) to another stance then run it out a little on easy ground to your next bolt and the final chimney/offwidth... Stem for a bit then get in to the squeeze chimney reaching back deep for holds and eventually laying back a few moves to a good hold at the top... Clip the chains and catch your breath...

There are many options as far as what moves and techniques you will use this is just my take on it...

It is sad that this route is very often wet...

Location

The dark (often wet) chimney on the right side of the crag...

Protection

9 bolts to anchor

Photos