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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Sport version -Ed Esmond 8/98, but found to have been previously lead trad by Tim Gotwells
Page Views: 7,681 total · 57/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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125 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A wakeup call for sporty sport climbers I'm sure... You will find all kinds of moves on this route that are hard to find elsewhere at Rumney... Thought provoking chimneys,and cracks, even a little off-width technique will come in handy... Most of the bolts are close together but there are a couple that might make someone shaky if they are used to Rumney's close bolts...

Start up the chimney, remember that using your feet well will help you conserve Energy for the strenuous moves at the top... As the chimney ends make moves left to a good stance and figure a way through a "boulder problem" where you have a few choices (i stay left) to another stance then run it out a little on easy ground to your next bolt and the final chimney/offwidth... Stem for a bit then get in to the squeeze chimney reaching back deep for holds and eventually laying back a few moves to a good hold at the top... Clip the chains and catch your breath...

There are many options as far as what moves and techniques you will use this is just my take on it...

It is sad that this route is very often wet...

Location

The dark (often wet) chimney on the right side of the crag...

Protection

9 bolts to anchor
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This was lead originally on gear by Tim Gotwells and called Cold Shoulder, then mostly left fallow for many years until unknowingly retroed by Esmond. It is now a quite popular route when dry. An excellent route for warming up before the harder routes as it uses your whole body. There are several ways to do the top, some more pretty than others! The anchors are right next to those of Strict Scrutiny 13d and Paradox. Aug 15, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9+
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9+
The best 5.9 at Rumney. Aug 20, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9+
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9+
I climbed this again today and I have to say that it was just as excellent as I remembered it. I made a pact with my belayer that from this day on, I will climb it to kick off the fall climbing season every year. She, unfortunately, did not buy in to the pact. Aug 29, 2008
Kayte Knower  
 
I concur. The best 5.9 at Rumney. Definitely not your average sport climb. Sep 2, 2008
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
Definitely deserves every star. This kind of climbing is pretty rare at a place like rumney. Sep 4, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
Judging by the high praise for this route it will be one of the first routes I get on this spring... cant wait, you all got my interest going! Mar 3, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
this.... looks..... SICK!!! im so pumped to get on this this spring! matt if you want a partner im here for ya! :) Mar 3, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Sorry mike this route stays wet for a long time in the spring... thats one reason it took me so long to get around to doing it... always wet... Mar 3, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
yeah mike we will def get out this spring and if this is a dry route we will have to tackle it Mar 4, 2009
Bjorn
WNC
Bjorn   WNC
My favorite 9 at Rumney. It's even better if you ignore the bolts and enjoy some perfectly G-rated rock climbing. It's a mystery to me why this was ever bolted. Defeats the whole character of the climb. May 25, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I personally find it more enjoyable climbing it the way it is, and not with a full rack of giant cams swinging around and getting caught as I chimney up the bottom of the often wet start. I wouldn't advocating it being bolted if it was elsewhere, but there is something to be said for the fact that despite being on a very popular crag, the climb lay dormant for something like 25 years until Ed cleaned and bolted the thing. Now people have fun on it all the time. May 25, 2009
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Bill and I enjoyed climbing this route in the mid 80's Aug 2, 2009
Ming
 
Ming  
 
No way I can squeeze in the chimney at the top! I had to do the layback move and it is pretty rad. Loved it! Jul 2, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Did this again today for the second time ever... yeah, its the best 5.9 at rumney... such a great climb!!!!!!!!!!
when this one is wet though (most of the time) Bbbutress is the the best 5.9 that is always dry :)

ps. i used 3 kneebars in the layback section.... Jul 21, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Lee, using knee-bars on this one is 'cheating'. You have long legs!
Really unusual sport route. Pumpy!! Jul 21, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
knee bars are always "cheating" haha... but the knee beta worked fine for my much shorter friend too... so :P Jul 21, 2012
jay davis
New Hampshire
 
jay davis   New Hampshire
 
Did I overlook a bolt in the middle section? I only counted 8 to the anchor, and there was a pretty sizable runout on the easier ground after the first chimney. Sep 16, 2012
Mike Robinson
Moab, UT
 
Mike Robinson   Moab, UT
 
Best 9+ in Rumney! (with b b buttress being the best 5.9)
Tricky with some good trad like moves. May 3, 2013
Scott Brown
Bellingham
 
Scott Brown   Bellingham
 
Climbed it yesterday! It was pretty wet at the bottom, but still ended up being a ton of fun!! Don't let the wetness deter you on a warm day! One of my favorite routes at Rumney so far! May 12, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Yup! Easily the best route under 5.10 at Rumney, though I'm sure it feels much harder than the grade to the average sport/gym climber. It's a great puzzle all the way through. The one "runout" section was very secure climbing I thought. Nov 17, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
I flew up the first 4/5ths of the climb thinking, "Awesome climb — I'm going to do this one a lot." Then I had an ugly thrashfest in the last section that I climbed as a squeeze chimney. It nearly killed me. Practiced full lexicon of Anglo-Saxon vocabulary. My advice: layback the last section! Jul 4, 2016
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
"I had an ugly thrashfest in the last section that I climbed as a squeeze chimney. It nearly killed me."

Me, too! This climb has an escalation of cruxes. Seemed like three, each one getting harder. You are not out of the woods until you clip. Awesome interesting physical climbing. Normally yes, you hate to see a trad route bolted... but this climb... too much fun!! Jul 20, 2017
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Ha-ha, I went sporto and laid back the finish. The route stays with you until you clip the anchors, for sure. Pump fest if you lay back the last bit. Too thrashy for me to chimney that part. Rumney is richer as a result of this route and its rating of .9+++. Jul 20, 2017
Best 5.9 at Rumney, indeed! So much fun and varied climbing on this one. Enjoy the adventure! Sep 18, 2017

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