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Routes in New Wave
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Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Wave S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Retrospade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Today Morning S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Weevil Knievil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 43.80285, -71.83444 |
| FA: | T. Armstrong |
| Page Views: | 3,542 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Armstrong on Jun 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Stemming, underclings, long powerful reaches to edges and sidepulls topped by a thin and balancy finish with a sinker hand slot to clip the anchor.
A perplexing move to gain the corner leads to a mix of 5.11 stemming and face moves up to the 4th bolt and a no-hands rest in the corner at right.
Move left past the 5th bolt and up through a series of underclings. Power up and left, then punch it some more to gain a positive sidepull. Crimp your way over the bulge on good edges to a thin stance. Rest and regroup for the final set of balancy moves up an incipient seam and thin face holds. Some fun!
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