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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: T. Armstrong
Page Views: 1,620 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tom Armstrong on Jun 22, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Stemming, underclings, long powerful reaches to edges and sidepulls topped by a thin and balancy finish with a sinker hand slot to clip the anchor.

A perplexing move to gain the corner leads to a mix of 5.11 stemming and face moves up to the 4th bolt and a no-hands rest in the corner at right.

Move left past the 5th bolt and up through a series of underclings. Power up and left, then punch it some more to gain a positive sidepull. Crimp your way over the bulge on good edges to a thin stance. Rest and regroup for the final set of balancy moves up an incipient seam and thin face holds. Some fun!

Location

Starts to the right of Dark Star, climbs the corner, then moves left onto the face to the top.

Protection

8 Bolts to LO.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
nice description... ive been wondering what this route was like... thanks... Jun 23, 2008