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Routes in New Wave
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Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Wave S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Retrospade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Today Morning S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Weevil Knievil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Lee Hansche |
| Page Views: | 1,076 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Feb 19, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Above the Short Wave anchor is a steep mostly blank wall that becomes more featured and therefore easier the higher you go. This extension completes the line to the top of the wall and shares the Barking Spiders anchor.
Climb Short Wave to the anchor at the sloping ledge. Clip the anchor, take a step left, climb up a little to clip the first bolt on the extension and get ready to explode. Locate a small left hand sidepull, post up, balance off of an improbable right hand sloper and spring for one of the holds up and right. The movement in this crux is somewhat moonboard-like. Work to keep control. A few more hard moves lead to a clipping position. After the second bolt above the anchor things ease off. Rest up and climb past one more bolt on climbing no harder than 5.11.
It's a new route, some small stuff may exfoliate but I did my best to clean it up. The grade is based off of the crux. V7? you be the judge. Enjoy it! I did.
Climb Short Wave to the anchor at the sloping ledge. Clip the anchor, take a step left, climb up a little to clip the first bolt on the extension and get ready to explode. Locate a small left hand sidepull, post up, balance off of an improbable right hand sloper and spring for one of the holds up and right. The movement in this crux is somewhat moonboard-like. Work to keep control. A few more hard moves lead to a clipping position. After the second bolt above the anchor things ease off. Rest up and climb past one more bolt on climbing no harder than 5.11.
It's a new route, some small stuff may exfoliate but I did my best to clean it up. The grade is based off of the crux. V7? you be the judge. Enjoy it! I did.
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