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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Mixed, 800 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: never know with a route like this
Page Views: 1,473 total, 16/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Mar 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Looking for an Alaskan-style adventure but your boss won't let you take the time off? Alaskarado offers a little taste of the big mountains a little closer to home. The route follows the southwest-facing gully between the Sharkstooth and the Petit Grepon, ending at The Gash. To access the climb, kick steps up an approach gully just left of the south face of the Petit Grepon.

P1: climb any of several options to gain a bench about a half rope-length above. We chose the left most option as it looked easiest, but it turned out to have a heady M6 R crux at the end. Future parties may want to experiment with other options (100 feet, M6 R, though there's a pretty good chance an easier option exists to the left).

P2: kick steps and simul-climb up steep snow past one rock band. After a while, the gully will narrow and steepen for some more difficult climbing past a chockstone (300 feet, M5).

P3: battle a snow mushroom and execute a crawl move around the left side of a chockstone (150 feet, M4).

P4: climb one more short pitch to The Gash (100 feet, M3).

At this point, you can continue to the summit of The Sharkstooth, descend The Gash, or rappel the route.

Protection

Rock gear, pins and a few screws.

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