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> Loch Vale & uphill
Central Buttress
WI5 M6 Steep Snow R
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Loch Vale & uphill
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Alaskarado M5 R |
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Central Buttress T WI5 M6 Steep Snow R |
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Cold Storage WI4 |
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Crypt, The T WI4 |
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Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R |
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Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13 |
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Dog House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a M5+ Steep Snow |
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Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R |
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Dry Ice T WI5 M9 |
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Freezer Burn WI4 |
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Grudge, The WI4 M4 |
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Inquisition, The T WI5 M5 |
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Leftist Activity WI5 M7 |
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Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R |
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North Face Icefield T |
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North Gully M4 Steep Snow |
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Northwest Buttress of Powell M6 |
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Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop AKA Thatchtop Northeast Gully T WI3-4 |
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Petit Gully, The T M5+ |
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Plan D T M5 |
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Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+ |
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Quicksilver T M3+ Mod. Snow R |
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Revelation T M5+ PG13 |
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Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4 |
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Sublime Vision T M7-8 |
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Taylor Glacier T |
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Timberline Falls T WI3 |
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Topophilia T M5+ PG13 |
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Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+ |
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Upper Wall WI5 M5 X |
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Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5 |
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Womb with a View T WI5 M6 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Kent-Hladik-Scott? Greg Sievers & Dougald MacDonald-variation |
| Page Views: | 4,530 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Sievers on Oct 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This entry into the database was listed under alpine rock. To facilitate mixed/ice climbers finding this information, this has been resubmitted under the CO mixed/ice section.
Begin 500' left of prow.(enlarge photo for details)
P1-2 - climb/traverse up & right on steep ramp.(M4).
P3-4 - steep snow directly up central buttress, ending on its right side.
P5 - acsend ice & cracks just right of center (M4).
P6 - ED snow on central rib
P7 - 1st crux - M5 in steep shallow bowl.
P8-9 - ED snow leading to upper headwall
P10-11 - M5-6? crux- (condition dependent) very thin, verglas, runout. Start left of center - move up and right, into a narrow slot - end on summit plateau.
Begin 500' left of prow.(enlarge photo for details)
P1-2 - climb/traverse up & right on steep ramp.(M4).
P3-4 - steep snow directly up central buttress, ending on its right side.
P5 - acsend ice & cracks just right of center (M4).
P6 - ED snow on central rib
P7 - 1st crux - M5 in steep shallow bowl.
P8-9 - ED snow leading to upper headwall
P10-11 - M5-6? crux- (condition dependent) very thin, verglas, runout. Start left of center - move up and right, into a narrow slot - end on summit plateau.
Approach info:
Hike up, like you're headed to the Petit Grepon, then hang a hard left. You can ski up from Sky Pond, if snow conditions are firm, or head west from Sky Pond, up the gully, then climb a narrow chute with a 30' ice bulge then continue onto and across the huge snowfield angling left to gain the same snow bowl below the face. the obvious weekness is a 500' feet left of the direct buttress base area.
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