WI5 M5 X
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||3,856 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Roy Leggett on Jan 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This is an incredibly ephemeral route, and we did not complete it due to the sun causing it to fall apart while we were on it. The sun sent a rain of ice onto us with constant BB size piece stinging our face and pieces up to baseball-size whizzing just inches from our head. At one point, a chunk of ice about the size of surfboard fell fifty feet to our left. Time to go!
The first 2 1/2 pitches were thin slabs and corners. While the climbing was low angle (WI 3 with one spot of M5), it was very thin and unprotected. The upper two pitches that we climbed where steeper, but had more ice and protection (though still sparse). The upper pitches also tended to have steep short cruxes spread between easier unprotected terrain.
We knew the sun would cause problems and while we tried to move as quickly as possible, the tenuous nature of the climbing required us to move slowly and precariously. While we where both bummed to not complete the route, we felt very lucky as we got to climb about 800 ft. of the route on September 25th. A great way to start the season.
The route is mentioned in the Rossiter guide as WI6, but we felt we only encountered difficulties to WI5 M5. We did however have approximately 200 feet of sustained ice remaining when we bailed, though it did not look to be terribly steep, just thin (<6 inches of ice) and delicate. (See the photos).
This was an awesome route, and I can't wait to try and climb it again.
We rappelled the upper wall, then traversed over to Necrophilia to continue rappelling.