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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, Mixed, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Perhaps Max Nuttelman, Ben Collett, May 2013
Page Views: 113 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on May 5, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is what you do if that awfully tempting smear of ice that you were looking at from Sky Pond ends up being 1/2 inch thick and rather unprotected.

Follow the dihedral/gully system past some steep and turfy sections until you can traverse left along a nice looking flake to a snow patch at the top of the buttress feature to the left of the gully. We belayed here after 180 feet, but there was a little rope drag, M5.

Traverse left on the snow patch to a shallow gully system which can be roughly followed to a fixed nut belay just below where the angle eases, just left of some pretty fresh rockfall scars. This pitch was around 170 feet and also suffered from some rope drag, so it may make sense to break it up. This section is M4ish.

To descend, rap from the top of the route to a pair of fixed nuts on an obvious snow ledge directly below. One 60m rap from there gets you back to the snow.

Location

Start in the same right-facing dihedral/gully as The Inquisition.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.

Photos

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