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Plan D
M5
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Loch Vale & uphill
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A Center For Ants T WI4 M7+ |
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Alaskarado M5 R |
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Central Buttress T WI5 M6 Steep Snow R |
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Cold Storage WI4 |
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Crypt, The T WI4 |
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Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R |
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Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13 |
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Dog House T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a M5+ Steep Snow |
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Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R |
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Dry Ice T WI5 M9 |
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Freezer Burn WI4 |
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Grudge, The WI4 M4 |
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Inquisition, The T WI5 M5 |
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Leftist Activity WI5 M7 |
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Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R |
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North Face Icefield T |
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North Gully M4 Steep Snow |
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Northwest Buttress of Powell M6 |
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Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop AKA Thatchtop Northeast Gully T WI3-4 |
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Petit Gully, The T M5+ |
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Plan D T M5 |
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Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+ |
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Quicksilver T M3+ Mod. Snow R |
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Revelation T M5+ PG13 |
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School for Kids Who Don't Read Good T WI4 M6+ |
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Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4 |
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Sublime Vision T M7-8 |
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Taylor Glacier T Steep Snow |
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Timberline Falls T WI3 |
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Topophilia T M5+ PG13 |
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Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+ |
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Upper Wall WI5 M5 X |
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Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5 |
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Womb with a View T WI5 M6 |
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.29451, -105.65776 |
| FA: | Perhaps Max Nuttelman, Ben Collett, May 2013 |
| Page Views: | 854 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Collett on May 5, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is what you do if that awfully tempting smear of ice that you were looking at from Sky Pond ends up being 1/2 inch thick and rather unprotected.
Follow the dihedral/gully system past some steep and turfy sections until you can traverse left along a nice looking flake to a snow patch at the top of the buttress feature to the left of the gully. We belayed here after 180 feet, but there was a little rope drag, M5.
Traverse left on the snow patch to a shallow gully system which can be roughly followed to a fixed nut belay just below where the angle eases, just left of some pretty fresh rockfall scars. This pitch was around 170 feet and also suffered from some rope drag, so it may make sense to break it up. This section is M4ish.
To descend, rap from the top of the route to a pair of fixed nuts on an obvious snow ledge directly below. One 60m rap from there gets you back to the snow.
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