All Locations > Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale & uphill
WI4-5 M5-6 R
Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice|
|FA:||Eric Aldrich and Dakers Gowans|
|Page Views:||4,266 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Kelly Cordes on Oct 16, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This route varies dramatically depending on its conditions, which are inconsistent - what a surprise! With a smattering of verglas present, it's a healthy grovel, a fair bit of low percentage moves and pro sometimes questionable. However, a couple of inches of ice can make a big difference in the climbing - but the pro can be tougher - as the climb is not especially steep for the rating. It is climbable without much ice, though a bit of ice probably makes it more fun. A true analysis of whether it's "in" can only be made at the route's base - the thin ice, and ice on edges, may not be visible from across the lake, but it can be good climbing.
Fixed anchor(s) (can do as two short or one long pitch) of old pins, but they seem good. Amount of ice influences pro considerably - in lean conditions, a full, standard rack of nuts and cams (including TCUs), along with Tri-cams is key. If "fat," lessen the rock gear and bring some screws - including shorties.