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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: Eric Aldrich and Dakers Gowans
Page Views: 4,120 total, 21/month
Shared By: Kelly Cordes on Oct 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route varies dramatically depending on its conditions, which are inconsistent - what a surprise! With a smattering of verglas present, it's a healthy grovel, a fair bit of low percentage moves and pro sometimes questionable. However, a couple of inches of ice can make a big difference in the climbing - but the pro can be tougher - as the climb is not especially steep for the rating. It is climbable without much ice, though a bit of ice probably makes it more fun. A true analysis of whether it's "in" can only be made at the route's base - the thin ice, and ice on edges, may not be visible from across the lake, but it can be good climbing.

Protection

Fixed anchor(s) (can do as two short or one long pitch) of old pins, but they seem good. Amount of ice influences pro considerably - in lean conditions, a full, standard rack of nuts and cams (including TCUs), along with Tri-cams is key. If "fat," lessen the rock gear and bring some screws - including shorties.

Toprope Protection

Not applicable.
Ben Collett  
 
It should be noted that one can continue above the terrace up the gully. You'll find a bunch of easy terrain followed by a really nice pitch up a 40m smear of ice. I would recommend doing this. It makes the whole thing feel like more of an outing. Nov 7, 2013
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
  WI4-5 M5-6
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
  WI4-5 M5-6
Thanks AC, sounds like I did miss some quality bits above. The climbing was spicy throughout the bottom sections and sounds like I have a good reason to go back and finish the top. From where we stopped it looked like the angle really eased off and the climbing got simpler. Of course it always looks that way from the bottom. Have fun out there. Nov 23, 2005
A team of three climbed Broken Axes in October, maybe adding a pitch or two in the process. I know they had a somewhat exciting time on the [descent]. I think they would [recommend] rapping the route instead of walking off. Nov 23, 2005
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
  WI4-5 M5-6
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
  WI4-5 M5-6
11-18-05 looked like the perfect day to explore Necrophilia and Deep Freeze. Beautiful day, a full moon over Hallet Peak. Didn't really post hole until we left the lake and headed up to Necrophilia. I'm joking with Brian about the last time I tried the climb and got so cold I couldn't feel my hands, face or elbows, just then the wind kicks up..... We refuse to acquiesce, too much approach and not enough climbing. Brian is kind enough (or stupid enough) to belay me on the first pitch. The first pitch is the real meat as far as I can tell. Cam a tool, place a cam, pull up over a serious bulge right off the deck. No gear, thin rotten ice, climb, climb, climb, crappy blade=mental gear, climb, climb, climb & place good #2 Camalot after 40 feet. Get on the vertical bongo ice, start hooking and place a stubby that hits air after an inch. Not much ice to rock bond at all. Climb, Climb and fire in another stubby, it sucks too (Brian tells me later that it froze in so was better than I thought, maybe). Finally get a yellow Alien and an old pin towards the end of the vertical ice section. Pull up onto some cream of wheat neve and hook some ice shards. A hundred feet up and it probably took 12 hours. Wind has been howling and driving snow the whole time. The belay is sheltered up there so the guilt sets in and I bring up my frozen cohort. He says to me "that was stupid hard, you can be proud of that!" And we went home. Nov 21, 2005
Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
Kelly's right on about the conditions and pro'. With the exception of the first 40' the thinner the ice, the better the pro, and the harder the climb. Walked into the Loch once, and there was almost nothing of the climb visible. 2 other parties were there and they turned around. We walked up to the base and, sure enough, it was climbable. First 40' is slabby and somewhat desperate (Ever try friction in crampons?), but once it gets steep, the cracks open up and climbing becomes memorable. Oct 24, 2002
Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
It appears to be totally devoid of any ice. Dec 3, 2001
Kelly Cordes  
 
Scott DeCapio and I climbed Necrophelia Oct 17 (sorry I didn't report conditions sooner!) - wasn't really that much fun, kinda spooky, scrappy, early season grovel. Some verglas covered parts of the route, but was mostly rock. No water running, either. Oct 25, 2001