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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,610 total · 8/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

North Face Icefield or Powell Peak Icefield is the wide snowfield west of Powell Peak and Vanquished Buttress, above Sky Pond in Loch Vale. A stellar alpine ice route, it is best climbed in mid- to late summer when the snow has slid and hard gray alpine ice is revealed. A number of variations are possible, the most consistent ice and steepest line is to the right of the rock rib high on the route. When we climbed it, enough melting had occured that there was some steep slush/ice mix and a little mixed climbing to get into the right side of the route. It is definitely worth it for 200+' of perfect ice.

Protection

Ice screws and a few nuts might be helpful when this route is "in" and if you choose to rope up.
James Kersey  
 
Soloed 6/21/2015. Firm snow on route from ~5:30-7:15. Right half still had significant cornices. Descended Andrew's Glacier.
Jun 22, 2015
J1.
Boulder, Colorado
J1.   Boulder, Colorado
How do you descend after climbing the snowfield?? Well the absolute best way is to ski down! or board if you're a split boarder. Mar 30, 2013
Martin le Roux
Superior, CO
Martin le Roux   Superior, CO
This is called the "Thatchtop-Powell" icefield in a couple of guidebooks (e.g. Gillett, Cooper "Colorado Snow Climbs"), which is an odd name since it doesn't actually finish between Thatchtop and Powell -- it finishes on the Taylor Peak side of Powell. Powell North Face is a better name.

As of late Sept 2011, this was hard neve with a thin layer of new snow. Angle was about 45 for the most part, maybe 50-55 degrees at the top of the couloir right of the rock rib. Cooper's book says 65 degrees, but we didn't think it was that steep. Sep 26, 2011
How do you get down from the top of the North Face Ice Field? There are several options, but only one of them is safe and practical. The ice field tops out on the Continental Divide just shy of 13000 feet. The best and safest descent is to hike the Divide behind Point 13015, behind Taylor Peak 13153 and descend the Andrews Glacier and Andrews Creek Trail back to the Loch Vale Trail. This means that you carry all your gear with you because a return to the base of the climb is fairly inconvenient. Alternatives: You can descend the Taylor Glacier Head Wall. I have done this, but it is no piece of cake. You can descend the NE Ridge of Powell Peak to the first col, then descend north to Sky Pond. This is dangerous and is not recommended. A final option is to follow the west side of the Continental Divide all the way to the summit of Flattop Mountain and hike down the nice trail to Bear Lake. This is the long way home. Nov 24, 2008
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
What is the descent off of this? Dec 6, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
One of the rock couloirs between the steepest ice/snow field and the less steep snow field was blasting out very significant quantities of rock 7/18/2. It was leaving a good sized fan of fresh grey granite. This may affect the approach to this climb. Jul 20, 2002