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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 Steep Snow R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+ Steep Snow
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4 Steep Snow
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ Mod. Snow R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Greg Sievers & Brian Verhulst (*incomplete)
Page Views: 3,128 total · 25/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Apr 3, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Located on the left side of the Vanquished Wall, just right of the base of a large buttress. This route climbs up and right from the start in a large RFD at the base. the first two pitches trend right.

P1 - stem past several small loose blocks and ice blobs and up 30' into a dish (the bigger gully contiinues left - don't bother). Step right into a a pair of cracks and climb directly up until they peter out. Step right, and make a 15' traverse right into a 5' wide chimney. Continue til you use up most of your rope, and have a 2' square ledge to belay on. (M4).

P2 - follow the chimney directly above until in constricts down to a squeeze. It will slant up and right, and continue in that style until it opens into a large basin. (M4).

P3 - climb up ledges in this 30' bowl and aim for the obvious, ice-plastered wall above. There is a 5' kite-shaped chockstone above, and the ice flows around that. Move up this WI5, pass the kite stone and belay on a large ledge immedately below a verglas ramp. (M5).

P4 - use the RFD for nuts to protect the verglas for 20', then commit to the ice for another 30'. Scratch up over the bulge and continue past ledges, aiming for a 12" rising (to the right) fold in the rock. the upward rising crack continues above the fixed (current final) station.

  • * We ran out of day here, but it appears the line continues for about 2 more pitches on this wall.

Location

This is 150' left of Vanquished.

Circumnavigate Sky Pond, and depart the shore up into the gentle valley/gully headed toward the Vanquished Wall. This gully will lead directly to the wall, but instead of turning right toward Vanquished, continue up and left into a large cleft and big, right-facing dihedral (see image).

3 rap stations descend the wall on a plumb line:
Top rap station = sling & nut, 150', step 10' right.
2nd rap station = nut & sling atop groove. rap 135'.
3rd rap station = land on a 12" ledge, step 5' left to 2 nuts, rap 135'.

Protection

The usual alpine mixed rack and 6 stubby screws.

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