Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Greg Sievers & Brian Verhulst (*incomplete)|
|Page Views:||3,591 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Sievers on Apr 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1 - stem past several small loose blocks and ice blobs and up 30' into a dish (the bigger gully contiinues left - don't bother). Step right into a a pair of cracks and climb directly up until they peter out. Step right, and make a 15' traverse right into a 5' wide chimney. Continue til you use up most of your rope, and have a 2' square ledge to belay on. (M4).
P2 - follow the chimney directly above until in constricts down to a squeeze. It will slant up and right, and continue in that style until it opens into a large basin. (M4).
P3 - climb up ledges in this 30' bowl and aim for the obvious, ice-plastered wall above. There is a 5' kite-shaped chockstone above, and the ice flows around that. Move up this WI5, pass the kite stone and belay on a large ledge immedately below a verglas ramp. (M5).
P4 - use the RFD for nuts to protect the verglas for 20', then commit to the ice for another 30'. Scratch up over the bulge and continue past ledges, aiming for a 12" rising (to the right) fold in the rock. the upward rising crack continues above the fixed (current final) station.
- * We ran out of day here, but it appears the line continues for about 2 more pitches on this wall.
Circumnavigate Sky Pond, and depart the shore up into the gentle valley/gully headed toward the Vanquished Wall. This gully will lead directly to the wall, but instead of turning right toward Vanquished, continue up and left into a large cleft and big, right-facing dihedral (see image).
3 rap stations descend the wall on a plumb line:
Top rap station = sling & nut, 150', step 10' right.
2nd rap station = nut & sling atop groove. rap 135'.
3rd rap station = land on a 12" ledge, step 5' left to 2 nuts, rap 135'.