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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, Mixed, 1000 ft, Grade III
FA: Harry Kent, Michael Covington & Casey Swanson 1974. (variation: Rick Strong & John Marrs, 1987)
Page Views: 5,021 total, 37/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Begin at the very highest point of the snowfield and climb a couple pitches trending left toward the ridge. Traverse back right and into a bowl. Trend left then follow the obvious relief toward the upper bowl and skyline notch.

Frozen Spring conditions may be best. Ken Younge & I did it in early April 2002. We were several hours late and post-holed in knee deep slush. Styrofoam type frozen snow would be ideal.

Location

Ascend the talus from Sky Pond and head left (west). Get on the snowfield and continue west to it highest point.

Protection

A light alpine rack. (A picket or 2 may be helpful in frozen spring snow conditions).

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
 
Climbed this in early April 2015. Other than some good ice on the first pitch, it was moderate to steep snow of varying degrees of consolidation all the way to the top. Some of the snow was very soft/sugary (not slushy). Very little rock was exposed, and hence protection was sparse. Wish we had more pickets! Apr 13, 2015
Gordon Laurens
Longmont, CO
 
Gordon Laurens   Longmont, CO
 
I did this route on March 18th 2012. It has to be one of the classics of Rocky Mountain alpine climbs. The position is spectacular. The opening moves on the first pitch are spicy M4, followed by steep snow. The 3rd pitch is also mixed at challenging M4 to gain the upper snowfield. The upper snowfield pitches are incredible. Be sure to take a couple of snow pickets for gear on these pitches. The upper snowfield goes into the shade after about 1 pm in March, so the snow does start to consolidate in the afternoon.







Mar 19, 2012
Krister Sorensen
Centennial, CO
Krister Sorensen   Centennial, CO
"Colorado Ice" by Jack Roberts lists the FA to be by Doug Scott, Doug Snively, and Mike Covington. Feb 11, 2007