Type: Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Perhaps Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan 1/29/11, perhaps not
Page Views: 984 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Jan 31, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Prise de Fer climbs a more direct line following a left-facing corner system to the left of Dog House, gains the east ridge of The Saber, and continues to the summit of The Saber from there.

P1-3: Climb the first three pitches of Dog House to a large, wide ledge. The fourth pitch of Dog House angles off right starting at the back right side of the ledge. Instead, climb a vertical chimney system system starting at the center of the ledge for another 50 feet. (M5+, 5.7, 280 feet total)

(Pitch one and two of Dog House can easily be combined if you're careful about rope drag, but I'll keep the pitch numbering here consistent with the Dog House description for clarity)

P4: Travers a small ledge left for 10 feet to gain an easier crack system then continue up till you run out of rope or the drag gets too bad. (5.7, 200 feet)

P5: Continue up fun and easier mixed terrain to the east ridge of The Saber. (5.5, 100 feet)

P6: Climb the east ridge of The Saber, alternately traversing along north side of the ridge and climbing the ridge crest. (5.6, 100 feet)

P7: Continue on to the summit of The Saber. (5.6, 150 feet)

Descent

There are many possible descents. From the summit of The Saber, the easiest way off may be to rappel down the east face of the Saber. Four rappels will get you to the ledge where Prise de Fer and Dog House split. From there, a 70m rap will just get you to the base.

Protection

Cams to 4 inches, stoppers, a few pins, large Hexes, maybe a stubby screw just in case.

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