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> Loch Vale & uphill
Prise de Fer
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British M5+
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill
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Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13 |
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Dog House T M5+ Steep Snow |
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Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R |
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Freezer Burn WI4 |
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Grudge, The WI4 M4 |
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Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4 |
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Petit Gully, The T M5+ |
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Plan D T M5 |
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Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+ |
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Quicksilver T M3+ Mod. Snow R |
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Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4 |
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Taylor Glacier T |
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Timberline Falls T WI3 |
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Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+ |
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Upper Wall WI5 M5 X |
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Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5 |
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Womb with a View T WI5 M6 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Perhaps Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan 1/29/11, perhaps not |
| Page Views: | 1,017 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Sheridan on Jan 31, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
Prise de Fer climbs a more direct line following a left-facing corner system to the left of Dog House, gains the east ridge of The Saber, and continues to the summit of The Saber from there.
P1-3: Climb the first three pitches of Dog House to a large, wide ledge. The fourth pitch of Dog House angles off right starting at the back right side of the ledge. Instead, climb a vertical chimney system system starting at the center of the ledge for another 50 feet. (M5+, 5.7, 280 feet total)
(Pitch one and two of Dog House can easily be combined if you're careful about rope drag, but I'll keep the pitch numbering here consistent with the Dog House description for clarity)
P4: Travers a small ledge left for 10 feet to gain an easier crack system then continue up till you run out of rope or the drag gets too bad. (5.7, 200 feet)
P5: Continue up fun and easier mixed terrain to the east ridge of The Saber. (5.5, 100 feet)
P6: Climb the east ridge of The Saber, alternately traversing along north side of the ridge and climbing the ridge crest. (5.6, 100 feet)
P7: Continue on to the summit of The Saber. (5.6, 150 feet)
P1-3: Climb the first three pitches of Dog House to a large, wide ledge. The fourth pitch of Dog House angles off right starting at the back right side of the ledge. Instead, climb a vertical chimney system system starting at the center of the ledge for another 50 feet. (M5+, 5.7, 280 feet total)
(Pitch one and two of Dog House can easily be combined if you're careful about rope drag, but I'll keep the pitch numbering here consistent with the Dog House description for clarity)
P4: Travers a small ledge left for 10 feet to gain an easier crack system then continue up till you run out of rope or the drag gets too bad. (5.7, 200 feet)
P5: Continue up fun and easier mixed terrain to the east ridge of The Saber. (5.5, 100 feet)
P6: Climb the east ridge of The Saber, alternately traversing along north side of the ridge and climbing the ridge crest. (5.6, 100 feet)
P7: Continue on to the summit of The Saber. (5.6, 150 feet)
Descent
There are many possible descents. From the summit of The Saber, the easiest way off may be to rappel down the east face of the Saber. Four rappels will get you to the ledge where Prise de Fer and Dog House split. From there, a 70m rap will just get you to the base.
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