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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 Steep Snow R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+ Steep Snow
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4 Steep Snow
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ Mod. Snow R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Perhaps Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan 1/29/11, perhaps not
Page Views: 970 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Jan 31, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Prise de Fer climbs a more direct line following a left-facing corner system to the left of Dog House, gains the east ridge of The Saber, and continues to the summit of The Saber from there.

P1-3: Climb the first three pitches of Dog House to a large, wide ledge. The fourth pitch of Dog House angles off right starting at the back right side of the ledge. Instead, climb a vertical chimney system system starting at the center of the ledge for another 50 feet. (M5+, 5.7, 280 feet total)

(Pitch one and two of Dog House can easily be combined if you're careful about rope drag, but I'll keep the pitch numbering here consistent with the Dog House description for clarity)

P4: Travers a small ledge left for 10 feet to gain an easier crack system then continue up till you run out of rope or the drag gets too bad. (5.7, 200 feet)

P5: Continue up fun and easier mixed terrain to the east ridge of The Saber. (5.5, 100 feet)

P6: Climb the east ridge of The Saber, alternately traversing along north side of the ridge and climbing the ridge crest. (5.6, 100 feet)

P7: Continue on to the summit of The Saber. (5.6, 150 feet)


There are many possible descents. From the summit of The Saber, the easiest way off may be to rappel down the east face of the Saber. Four rappels will get you to the ledge where Prise de Fer and Dog House split. From there, a 70m rap will just get you to the base.


Cams to 4 inches, stoppers, a few pins, large Hexes, maybe a stubby screw just in case.


More About Prise de Fer