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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, Ice, 200 ft
FA: Ben Collett, Erik Rieger
Page Views: 1,160 total, 23/month
Shared By: erik rieger on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

There are a few ice flows located high above the Loch Vale cragging area. They've probably been climbed before, but I wanted to add the info for others to go explore. We climbed the obvious flow on the right after our planned route at Sky Pond didn't pan out. Ben suggested the name, since it's like a tame version of Necrophilia. It's worthwhile if you're desperate but not into the dead thing, or you could combine with the NW gully and other short climbs. The left-most flow is lower-angle but takes on a long gully.

Location

This is on the northern aspect of Thatchtop, directly above the Loch Vale cragging area. Approach as for Deep Freeze/Necrophilia up to the lake, but move left (east) across the moraine bench below those routes to reach the smears. It's easy to see from the trail if they're in or not.

Protection

We soloed the route, so there's no rap anchor. Build one or walk off skier's left down a technical and exposed gully. Protection would be thin on the first half, bring rock gear.

Photos

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