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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 3,934 total, 20/month
Shared By: Ryan Jennings on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Finally got the time to add some routes to this site. This was a line that Topher, Kevin Cooper, and I tooks turns winging off of in the winter of 2002 (I believe?). After numerous tries, we had fixed protection across the entire traverse allowing Topher to finally get the first ascent. I soon lead the second ascent, but I doubt it's seen another since. It still awaits a lead without preplaced gear. There is a picture of Kevin starting the traverse in Alpinist #5.

The line starts up an ice flow to the right of Deep Freeze. Climb the WI4 flow up a corner until a crack gives pro on the left. Head up this line to the roof and then hang on for a long traversing ride back to the left eventually reaching the ice dagger of Deep Freeze and the finish.

Protection

This is a naturally protected mixed line. Standard rock rack. The traverse uses multiple Metolius #00, 0, and 1.

Photos

This is a cool route that adds some more climbing in the Deep Freeze Cirque, making it easier to stomach the approach for Deep Freeze's single pitch crux. The roof looks improbable from below but has reasonable feet and gear with one longish pull. I'm guessing this thing was very hard with leashes--nice job, FA team!--but the difficulty is much reduced without them, so don't hesitate to give it a try! Cheers. Dec 17, 2011