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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Josh Wharton and Steve Su
Page Views: 1,259 total, 16/month
Shared By: j wharton on Apr 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I think this is the best mixed route I've done in the park. It has it all, techy, steep, shortish approach, you name it. It's also likely the most sustained, with a hard second pitch crux.

Difficulty on the middle portion of the route will vary greatly depending on the amount of ice, but I think it's alway climable. Spring probably yields the most ice.

Begin on The Sublime Buttress. After the first two pitches (cool frozen hummocks on P1, and very pumpy trad m-ing on P2), traverse a ledge left to join Tunnel Vision. Climb Tunnel Vision to the base of the tunnel pitch (2.5 pitches, M5ish), and move out right to the base of the big steep, left-facing system. Two pitches of engaging M6 to the top.

We rapped the route with two 60 meter ropes.

Location

This begins on the summer rock route "Sublime Buttress." Its location described elsewhere on Mtn Project.

Protection

A single set of stoppers, a single set of cams, with extra fingers to hands,and perhaps a screw or two.

Photos

- No Photos -
j wharton  
 
Blake, it does not climb the entire Sublime Buttress, just the first two pitches. Then left across a ledge (from a tree belay) to join Tunnel Vision for 2.5 pitches. Then right for 2 more pitches up a steep, left-facing corner. Hope you've been well! May 1, 2011
Josh, does this follow the whole "Sublime Buttress" summer rock climb? or veer left into the corner system? Nice job to you and Steve! May 1, 2011
j wharton  
 
Yes, we climbed the roof on pitch two of Sublime Buttress, which is the crux of the route. If you climbed it on a warm, sunny day and could use your hands to jam, it would probably be a bit easier. Was very wintery when Steve and I climbed. Steve took some photos of the upper corner. Hope you go climb it! Be great right now, since we removed a lot of snow. Apr 29, 2011
Nice, Josh. Any photos? Did you go out the roof? Apr 29, 2011