Type: Mixed, Ice, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Michael Bearzi and Bill Myers, 1991
Page Views: 9,775 total · 56/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Apr 13, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Four or five pitches of excellent mixed climbing on thin slabs, steep faces, corners and chimneys. We climbed the route in spring as many guidebooks describe as the best season, however I've run into folks who say its better in the fall.

Pitch 1- Climb up thin ice on a low angle face. Belay at a large flake wrapped with webbing. WI5 M5 190ft

Pitch 2 – Climb easy mixed terrain then a large left facing corner of 85 deg. Ice. Belay in an alcove below a vertical chimney. WI4 M3 160ft

Pitch 3 – Climb a vertical chimney with thin ice on the left and good rock pro on the right. Traverse left under a chalkstone roof at the end of the pitch. WI5 M5 100ft

Pitch 4 – Climb up to and over an ice bulge which tops out onto low angle terrain. WI5 ?ft

Location

From the Glacier Gorge trailhead, hike to Sky Pond, i.e. the same approach as for the Petit Grepon. Due South of Sky Pond is a large buttress. If you're lucky, Vanquished will be there.

Protection

Standard mixed route for a thinly iced climb. Bring plenty of pins (I didn't bring enough) as many of the good cracks were choked with ice.

Photos