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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Mixed, Ice, 100 ft
FA: J. Copp, B. Collett, Dec. 2008
Page Views: 894 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Dec 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb onto the blob of ice from below and left, hopefully passing a couple of really short pillars of ice to a stance behind the blob. Here a #0.75 Camalot can be placed before hard mixed moves to get established onto the ice. After getting onto the ice, continue up easier rock past two chimney sections to an anchor at 100ft.

An easier variation "Palin Comparison" climbs onto the ice blob from the right past a couple of loose blocks, but otherwise fun dry tooling.

Location

Just before the WI 3/4 pitch on Deep Freeze, there is a blob of ice on the left wall that comes out of the base of a deep chimney system that runs to the top of the wall.

Protection

A few screws and a single set of cams to #5 Camalot.

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