Revelation

This route follows a system of clean corners and cracks to the top of the Vanquished Wall. Each pitch offers quality, sustained, varied, and technical climbing that follows weaknesses in solid stone with occasional pockets of ice and great turf! This route is unique in its sustained nature throughout each pitch in comparison to many mixed lines in the park whose cruxes are surmounting chockstone bulges between moderate terrain. Each pitch hosts sections of spectacular turf climbing that is often required for the sequence (and satisfying!). Please try to only climb this route if the turf is frozen.

P0 (M6+ A0, 25m)

This short, spicy pitch is only required when the snowpack is low. If you attempt the route in the spring rather than the fall, you will likely be able to just follow the snow curtain up to the start of the following pitch (listed here as pitch 1). Begin in a shallow, left-facing corner or begin a few feet left in a curving, right-facing corner that peters out after about 25’. Place a high piece or pin, and tension traverse left and slightly up through a blank section to gain the base of a mostly closed, left-facing corner. Aim for the curving flake/face splitter up and left. Keep a Lost Arrow and knifeblade handy.

P1 (M5, 55m)

Climb the bulletproof, pick torque flake that becomes a big hands splitter with fun turf pods. At the top of the splitter and when you reach a stance, move right and up for 50 feet along a steep, right-trending ramp. After a couple steep sections, move through ice and turf for 15’ to the base of a clean corner, and build a belay at a fixed pin.

P2 (M5-, 55m)

The start of the dihedral is usually filled with snow. Work your way past several steeper sections of this lower angle dihedral through fun and varied sequences with more great rock and good pro. Follow the left-facing dihedral to its end. Continue up and slightly right along a ledgy ramp with a slung flake/block. More stellar turf awaits as you trend slightly back left over blocky terrain aiming for the corner above. Belay at the base of the corner.

P3 (M5+, 55m)

Delicately poise your way up the dihedral through sections of trickery with twin seams and (yep, you guessed it!) more quality rock and frozen turf. Sling a horn next to a fixed knifeblade on the left near the top of the dihedral before making the obvious trend to the right along a rounded snow ledge that leads to an alcove with red-brown stone. Belay in the red-brown alcove at a fixed pin.

P4 (M4+, 50m)

Climb straight up through the dihedral or halfway up the dihedral, and exit to the right. Wander along blocky, lower angle terrain, trending up and right until you find a spot to belay, and walk off.

Currently this route is the farthest right line on this wall. The first pitch in the spring is easily picked out by looking for the 80-100 foot crack just above the top of the snowslope. In the fall when the wall is about 25m longer, start below and to the right of this flake in a shallow, left-facing corner system, and move left with the A0 tension traverse or M?++ slabby magic.

Doubles (micro to #2), singles (00, #3, #4), stoppers (single set small to medium/large), a few hexes (a #10 hex or a second #3 is helpful), an assortment of pins, slings, and 60m ropes.