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Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 Steep Snow R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+ Steep Snow
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4 Steep Snow
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ Mod. Snow R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
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Type: Mixed, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Hobbs and Ryan Vachon
Page Views: 456 total · 9/month
Shared By: RWV on Apr 21, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Dirty Peeps Variation, M6:

The route includes a lot of classic Rocky Mountain-style climbing: ephemeral ice in corners, frozen turf, and hooking on mostly good rock. We were there in really ice-lean conditions, and we guess that several of the challenging moves can be more easily surmounted with fat conditions.

Pitch 1, M5, 60m (not new): This is the same first pitch as Plan D. At the top of snow slope, start up a short section of chossy rock to enter into the left side of the U-notch. There are a couple of places where intermediate anchors could be set, but we pushed up to a somewhat level terrace.

Pitch 2, M6, 60m: from the grassy terrace, ascend the obvious, steep, slightly right-arching crack. The first half of this pitch has a stretch of well-protected M6 moves (physical crux). After about 100 feet, step right onto some balancy, face moves. The line then heads right along ledges. Belay in a trough (where the route meets back up with The Inquisition). This pitch could be easily divided into two.

Pitch 3, M5+, PG13+, 30m: we could not pull through the rock band (with the obvious kite rock) as suggested by Greg Sievers & Brian Verhulst - because of lack of ice. Instead, we followed the set of the obvious cracks 15 feet to the left of the kite. ItÂ’s clear that this is not the optimal line, if the ice were in. The crack may look casual, but there are a couple of awkward, heads-up sections (mental crux). After pulling the lip, you are at the top of pitch 3 of The Inquisition. For all intents and purposes, this is just another variation of pitch 3 of The Inquisition.

The route name was inspired by the disgusting marshmallow treats consumed around Easter (we were there on Easter weekend), the shear volume of turf, and possibly the general mindset of the first ascent climbers.

Location

On Powell Peak, on the left side of Vanquished Wall, The Dirty Peeps Variation begins and later merges with The Inquisition.

Protection

Alpine rack: tiny cams to #3 Camalot, full set of nuts, a few stubby screws, and knifeblade pitons.

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