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> Loch Vale & uphill
Double Tap
WI3 M5 A0 R
Avg: 2 from 1
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Doug Shepherd and Kevin Craig (October 2009) |
| Page Views: | 2,071 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | dips on Nov 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Double Tap follows mixed ground to the right of an obvious ice flow near the Vanquished buttress. The crux for us was the runout slab mixed climbing required on the second pitch. We used a point of aid to get around the delaminated ice on the top of the first mixed section. This should be possible to eliminate with better ice conditions/better climbers.
The style and difficulty of climbing will vary wildly depending on the ice conditions. If the runnel is bonded better, you can avoid the mixed climbing on the whole first pitch and most of the second pitch. We are pretty sure that the lower ice section has been done as a pure ice route before, but the mixed climbing we did seems to be new.
In a better year there might be more ice past our stopping point, but as it is we rapped from the end of the ice.
The style and difficulty of climbing will vary wildly depending on the ice conditions. If the runnel is bonded better, you can avoid the mixed climbing on the whole first pitch and most of the second pitch. We are pretty sure that the lower ice section has been done as a pure ice route before, but the mixed climbing we did seems to be new.
In a better year there might be more ice past our stopping point, but as it is we rapped from the end of the ice.
Location
This is approximately a 1/4 mile left of the Vanquished Buttress. We left two fixed rappel anchors, which may or may not be there due to wind and snow.
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