Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Alaskarado M5 R
Central Buttress T WI5 M6 R
Cold Storage WI4
Crypt, The T WI4
Deep Freeze T WI5-6 M5 R
Dirty Peeps Variation M6 PG13
Dog House T M5+
Double Tap T WI3 M5 A0 R
Dry Ice T WI5 M9
Freezer Burn WI4
Inquisition, The T WI5 M5
Leftist Activity WI5 M7
Necrophilia T WI4-5 M5-6 R
North Face Icefield T
North Gully M4
Northwest Buttress of Powell M6
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T WI3-4
Petit Gully, The T M5+
Plan D T M5
Prise de Fer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M5+
Quicksilver T M3+ R
Sex With A Live Person T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-4
Sublime Vision T M7-8
Taylor Glacier T
Timberline Falls T WI3
Tunnel Vision T WI4+ M4+
Upper Wall WI5 M5 X
Vanquished (Powell Peak) WI5 M5
Womb with a View T WI5 M6
Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,246 total, 22/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Dec 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Approach as for Loch Vale. The Crypt is located on the north side of the Loch and gets sun later in the day. Climb uphill to the obvious 100' curtain. Rocks may be found on the right side of the approach if avalanche conditions are high. Look out for avalanches from above as well. Allow 2 hours for the approach. To descend, rappel off trees.

Protection

A few screws should suffice.
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
An okay backup route. Otherwise, not sure it's worth the hike or avy risk. Rap slings are up and right of the route and may be snow-covered. Realistically, more like 50' than 100'. Jul 19, 2013
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
We could find no rap slings on 12-29-11.

I don't know if the 2 huge trees laying horizonally above the left side of this route are from the November 2011 wind event (they are still green).

We only found tat w/ rap rings on the big dead tree to the far right(which we cut off).

We installed a new rap sling w/ 1-ring & 1-biner around 2 x 5" trees in the lower center, and closest to the edge. I hope it remains easy to find. Dec 30, 2011
cheifitj Cheifitz
Boulder, Colorado
cheifitj Cheifitz   Boulder, Colorado
Climbed the Crypt today, Jan 9th, 2010. The slings at the top have been upgraded to having two rap rings and an extra piece of cord or two. Should be good to go for a while.
-Jon Jan 9, 2010
Scott Bower
Fort Collins, CO
  WI4
Scott Bower   Fort Collins, CO
  WI4
The Crypt is nowhere near 100 feet tall. There are two trees at the top with slings around them. The first is very small and suspect. The second tree is much larger, but farther (~30 feet) from the top of the ice. A 60m rope easily reaches from the second tree, but a 50m rope should be long enough as long as you rap toward the ride side of the climb. Feb 17, 2004
Only attempt this route in low avalanche conditions. Huge waves of snow that would rip you off your stance and prompty bury you routinely pummel this route. New accumulations of snow pose problems. The sun warming the snow above the route also causes serious problems. Be careful. Aug 19, 2002
Went up to the Loch to do the Crypt on 2-16-02. Did not need skis for the approach. The flow looks good except for the creeping snowfield above the gully. Trying to salvage the day we then checked out the Loch Vale Gorge area. It was lacking in ice! Feb 18, 2002