Faith, Hope, and Charity
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British R
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.92885, -105.28656 |
| FA: | Joseph Crotty and Alex Blum |
| Page Views: | 1,066 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph Crotty on Jun 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Faith, Hope, and Charity was lead-pointed over three days in late May and early June 2009 and then led all gear placed on lead. This is possibly a three star route, but some suspect holds in the first half detract from the overall movement and stellar upper crux. A combination of creative body work, mental stamina, semi-technical foot work, and a dash of power add up to good climbing.
Climb an easy slab into the right-facing dihedral. Place a few good technical cams then grapple with the tenuous and awkward lower crux. Mid-crux some dubious gear can be placed. Botching the exit sequence into the rest guarantees carnage. You will not die, but it will not be pretty (.11c R).
From a balance rest sew up the crack with medium stoppers. Fire to the arête and up onto the crux face. Finish on the sparsely protected face/arête just left of the last third of Star Wars second pitch. JIT (Just-In-Time) gear appears on the face if you search for it.
Originally TR'ed by Mark Tarrant.
Location
between Forbidden Planet and pitch two of Star Wars. Start 50' left and 50' below the second pitch of Star Wars from a comfortable ledge below the obvious right facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out onto the arête and then face. Finish on the face/arête just to the left of the last third of Star Wars second pitch. Solid tree for anchor. Walk off uphill a bit to the Lower Peanuts/Upper Peanuts saddle.



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