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The Sacred and the Profane
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British R
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Early Access
Routes in Lower Peanuts
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Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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B.A.T.E. Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Black Pearl S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Criller T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Direct Start to Your Basic Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Faith, Hope, and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Nova (aka Jawa?) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Progressive Overload T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Rapa Nui (Easter Island) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Star Track T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: |
Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
| GPS: | 39.92885, -105.28656 |
| FA: | Dale Goddard, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 4,819 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Jul 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Sacred and the Profane is a sport climbing history lesson. It's hard to experience the slabby, old school style and sparse bolting on TSATP without being transported back to a time when lycra was king, and footwork, technique, and finesse were the rule.
To start TSATP, climb the start of Peanuts, and traverse 30 feet right along an easy ramp until you are below a small roof which is capped by a blunt arete. Clip the first bolt, make some easy moves over the roof, and then setup for the reachy, off-balance crux. Fight to establish on the right side of the arete and continue making bizarre, unstable moves until you reach a rest below the fourth and final bolt. After recovering, punch through the tweaky second crux, and push through 25 feet of easy (10a), but extremely runout terrain to the anchors.
It's worth noting that just past the fourth bolt, there is a minimally reinforced flake undercling. This hold is not foreign to the wall. A small amount of glue was put behind the hold to ensure that it wouldn't fall off- making the route a lot harder or impossible.
Since this route is all about footwork, and technique, it's really hard to rate. Older guidebooks suggest a 12d/13a rating. Newer guides have indicated a 13a/b rating. For this reason, I have given this route the vague rating of 13-. Impeccable footwork and technique might make this route feel like 12d. However, a lack of slab climbing experience could make this thing feel like 13b or harder.
In the end it doesn't matter. Simply let TSATP teach you something and allow yourself to be humbled by this amazing route.
Protection
4 bolts, and a two bolt anchor. In addition to the fixed gear, the first 30 feet (the start of Peanuts) requires some fingers to hand-sized gear.
A toprope can be setup via many routes, but the easiest is Your Basic Lieback.
Also, to avoid the huge runout at the end, it's possible to dangle a long piece of rope with overhand knots containing quickdraws from the anchors. Some may consider this cheating. Others consider it smart.
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