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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,680 total, 36/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very mellow sandstone slab climb with plenty of handholds. Starts out and goes most of the way on bare sandstone with gradually increasing varnish from about half way.

There are some hollow sounding areas, particularly to the right, so if you weigh in at 250, you might want to only delicately yard on the holds.

Location

This is on the left side of the Ice Cream Parlor area. If the anchors above the left corner 5.6 crack are anchor #1, then this route climbs to anchor #4 (from the left). (There are another couple of anchors to the left of the slab area, but let's not complicate things). It is just left of a broken depression in the slab area.

Protection

5 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors.
Tony Pag
  5.7
Tony Pag  
  5.7
As of August 2016 this route has mussy hooks at the top.

We both thought it was a bit easier but more fun than Black Slab. Aug 12, 2016
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.7
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.7
5.7 may be a fair rating for a move or two near the 1st/2nd bolt, but otherwise a nice mellow warm-up climb.

Stepping up to the anchors is the real crux. A tall guy like me can easily reach up and clip in a quickdraw or slip the rope into the cold shuts, but stepping up to rig up a rappel requires a move more difficult than a 5.7 unless you grab the chains. A shorter person will find reaching the anchors to be the crux move. Feb 16, 2014
optikal Freeman
SLC, UT
  5.6
optikal Freeman   SLC, UT
  5.6
Felt 5.6 to me too. No real apparent crux Sep 28, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.6
Felt 5.6 to me. Doesn't have as distinct of a crux as Black Slab, but overall felt like it had better quality movement. Might be a little heady for a 5.6 leader to get to the first bolt, but the holds are all there. Jun 12, 2011
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I was told by another climber at Ice Cream Parlor that this route is 5.7. I thought it was a little easier than what I'm used to at 5.7; your mileage may vary. Apr 22, 2007