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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,666 total, 59/month
Shared By: Zeb Kenyon on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A three pitch route on the far left side of the wall. A broken, wide-ish corner system equipped with rap rings. Lots of pro available.

P1: Short, but good, hand and fist crack with some nice positioning and movement. Easy to protect, this is a great beginner trad lead. Finish at some rap rings. (5.6)

P2: A Chossy bolted pitch with an occasional placement to an anchor. (5.5)

P3: A long and wide crack to an anchor. (5.6)

Most people climb only the first pitch.

Location

Left of Crack 1, 2, and 3 in the corner.

Protection

Standard Rack to at least a #4 Camalot and possibly a #5.
jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.6
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.6
Read the description to "Space Ghost" if you want to do the whole thing. That is the real name of this route. It goes to the rim. Nov 4, 2015
Joshua Griffin
Glenwood Springs, CO
Joshua Griffin   Glenwood Springs, CO
The belay ledge at the top of the third pitch was clean when we climbed in March 2015.

Anyone know if the fourth pitch is manageable? I was looking at going up the length of the chimney but wasn't sure about rappel/downclimbing options. Jun 16, 2015
Devin Stratton
Orem, Utah
  5.7
Devin Stratton   Orem, Utah
  5.7
All 3 pitches were fun. Noticed a loose bolt at the top of pitch 2. May 25, 2015
Mike K
Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
Mike K   Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
Yes, you can rap off the second pitch anchors with a 70. Just did so. Also, beware of rattlesnakes at the base of the route. We found a small dwarf rattler under a rock we had been sitting on all morning and were told they're frequently there. Jul 15, 2014
My gear, a X Climb cam is stuck somewhere in the middle of the first pitch! If anyone can find a way to take it out, without destroying the rock, let me know please! I live in Moab. Feb 18, 2014
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.7+
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.7+
Great route but be careful: this may be considered a 5.6 climb in Moab by climbers who are used to climbing vertical 5.11 cracks all the time, but in the real world this climb would be considered 5.7/7+. The Wind Ridge in 'stiff' Eldorado Canyon (5.6) is much easier than this; and Double Cross in Joshua Tree - rated 5.7+ - is also easier than this. It's a good route, just don't expect it it to be a 5.6.

It protects very well, so if a beginner trad leader tackles this at least they'll have good gear at the crux. Feb 16, 2014
Mike K
Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
Mike K   Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
Third pitch is closer to 5.8 if we're calling the first pitch 5.6. Bring wide gear. I had a #5, #4, and two #3s BD C4s and wish I had one more piece to place at the top (either another 3 or 4). But I'm a chicken. May 30, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Maybe it's because I have fat hands and fingers but I thought this was considerably harder than 5.6. But so did my friends; Steve has average hands and Lucy has slender hands. The crack is awesome but the jams, and especially the feet, were a little tenuous. Mar 29, 2013
budman
Moab,UT
budman   Moab,UT
Believe this route to be Tom Gilje's route Space Ghost with the one and only Stonefed regular Jasper. Really 4 pitches but the first two are easily linked. Link the first 2 and the 3rd is the off width which ends on top of a pillar exiting a hand crack (stay in the chimney to get there). Don't stop there as the 4th is the money pitch, 10b. Down climb from the pillar and continue up the wide hands section. It will get smaller and then traverse left under the roof. Pull the roof to exit and rap anchors are up on the next ledge and on the face. Oh yeh I'm a chickenshit and used a 5 friend and 2 number 6 friends on the off width. Might be nice to have 3 wide hands pieces for the 4th pitch. Doubles were o.k. from small fingers to hands. Oct 1, 2012
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
I climbed the second and third pitch in 2009. I placed bolts and chains for the belays and a few bolts on pitch 2 because the rock was such poor quality I didn't trust some of the crack protection. Enjoyable if you don't mind some choss. Dec 9, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.6
Multipitch at Ice Cream Parlor! The third and final pitch is what defines this route. When we climbed it we placed 2 #4 C4's, but you can protect it well with just one. And if you want, you could even place a #5 near the start. However, the flake above isn't as wide as it looks from the belay. My second #4 barely fit; a #3 would have worked better.

This pitch had two cruxes. One down low that involved doing a sort of mantel onto a narrow shelf (which makes a good rest) and the second at the top of the flake which involved some lieback moves. There were great hands but slippery feet. Once on top of the flake, you still have work to do. Traverse right on a narrow ledge (there's a flake about chest high here that has great hands but it is extremely loose) to a belay anchor. I placed a #1 C3 in a crack between the ledge and headwall to protect my follower. Watch out at this belay because there is a great deal of loose rock. Two raps with a 70m got us to the ground.

Was told above the third pitch the climb continues up a flared chimney to the rim. The chimney looks manageable but the topout looks like it may be burly. Though I havent been up there so cant say for sure; just reporting on what it looked like to me from the top of the third pitch. Jun 12, 2011
Dreez  
This is actually a 3 pitch route. Pitch 2 is mostly bolts with maybe 1 medium cam. Super easy 5.4. but crumbly so be carefull. Pitch 3 goes up about 60 feet up WIDE flake so bring big gear maybe #4 and #5. Looks easy but I did not do it. I saw anchors on top of flake about 20 feet to right of the end of the flake crack. I saw the anchors from a different climb, the 5.8 crack back to the left. There are also rap bolts on the flake itself so you can bring 1 rope. Jul 15, 2010
looks like a second pitch continues up and right then moving back left following bolts to the anchor below the wide corner. haven't been up there yet, but hope to check it out when the snow melts. Dec 9, 2009
Jonathan Amburgey
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Jonathan Amburgey   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
This is a nice warm-up, or a good intro climb to crack climbing in the Moab area. I found it to be a good route for practicing jamming and foot technique. Too bad it's not a longer route. There are anchors present at the top, just right of the last block after topping out (they're visible from the ground). There's also a nut lodged in the small finger crack just below the anchors (my partner tried to pull it, but it seems to be permanently wedged). Gear wise, I used primarily BD cams (#'s .5 - 2 (doubles on the size 2 are helpful), and a size 6 Metolius Master Cam). Jul 31, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.6
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.6
Good jams the whole way. Any where it gets wide, there's face holds. I carried singles from .3 C4 up to #4 friend, although, I didn't need anything smaller than .5 C4. The face to the right can be toproped at a very technical 5.10. Mar 16, 2009
Mark L  
felt very secure and easier than 5.6 May 13, 2008
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Location is approximately 75 feet left of crack 3 and as you might guess, it's in the corner. Mar 17, 2008
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
Short but fun. Didn't place anything larger than #2 camalot. May 29, 2007