Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
War Elephant S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Ghilje, Jasper Groff, 1995
Page Views: 1,705 total, 27/month
Shared By: jason malczyk on Oct 10, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.

Pitch 2: Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a horizontal. The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney. Continue up the chimney and not to the anchor on the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor. The route continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)

Pitch 3: Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof. Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof. Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)

Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 meter rope you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three raps.

Location

Space Ghost is the the far left crack system at the Ice Cream Parlor. The Original start was the 5.6 Corner but you can start a bit more direct on Parlor Game 5.9.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.

Protection

Singles of .01 C2 to #1 cams, Doubles of #2 and #4 cams. Triples of #3 Bring a extra 3 and 4 size cams if you are not comfortable with the size. 10 draws, extending draws are nice for the last pitch.

Photos

Joshua Griffin
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Joshua Griffin   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Loved this climb. Not much loose rock on the way. I belayed off the tree using my climbing rope to extend the belay all the way to the roof so there was less drag then walked over to the rock on the right to rappel. Mar 10, 2016
John P McBride
Littleton CO
 
John P McBride   Littleton CO
 
As the description says, be extremely careful of loose rock after the flake and into the chimney. When me and my partner did this, there was alot in this area. If you need to bail, after the flake, there are some rap anchors to the right on top of the flake.

Otherwise, this is a fantastic climb. The flake was really fun and kind of scary. Bring a #3 and #4 and enjoy! Jan 27, 2016