Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Tom Ghilje, Jasper Groff, 1995 |
Page Views: | 4,334 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | jason malczyk on Oct 10, 2012 |
Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.
Pitch 2: Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a horizontal. The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney. Continue up the chimney and not to the anchor on the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor. The route continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)
Pitch 3: Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof. Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof. Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)
Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 meter rope you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three raps.
Pitch 2: Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a horizontal. The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney. Continue up the chimney and not to the anchor on the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor. The route continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)
Pitch 3: Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof. Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof. Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)
Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 meter rope you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three raps.
Location
Space Ghost is the the far left crack system at the Ice Cream Parlor. The Original start was the 5.6 Corner but you can start a bit more direct on Parlor Game 5.9.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.
8 Comments