Elevation: 4,402 ft
GPS: 38.5092, -109.5995
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 230,286 total · 913/month
Shared By: Greg D on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Great climbing on mostly excellent wingate in a beautiful canyon. It has some of the easiest climbing in the area. As a result, it sees a lot of visits from local guides with sometimes a dozen clients or more as well as large unguided groups. So expect crowds. Also, the road sees loads of ATV's which are loud and dusty. So, go on a weekday if possible.

There are several bolted slab routes as well as several crack routes. The difficulty ranges from 5.5 bolts to 5.12 trad, so there is something for everybody. Most routes are single pitch with anchors. But, there are a handful of multi pitch as well.

The lower left has some harder multi pitch. The slabs in the middle have lots of moderates and a few harder routes. The steeper rock to the right has some of the areas best routes but sees less traffic and is accessed by a ledge on the right.

The crag is west facing. So, it is great in the afternoon when it is cool and great in the mornings when it is hot.

Getting There

From Main St in Moab head west on Kane Creek Blvd (near McDonald's). After the pavement ends you will begin to enter into Kane Creek Canyon. Drive about 3.6 miles (YMMV) down into the canyon. The potable natural spring is at 2.2 miles, so check your milage here and extrapolate for your odometer. After a creek crossing (which is dry most of the year) the road turns sharply to the left. There is some parking near large boulders here but many people drive another 100 yards and park on the road. The access trail is better there.

Responsible Recreation

  • It is important to stay on the trail. Our trails are surrounded by living soil called Biocrust. Off-trail travel damages the deserts delicate ecosystem for decades after. Find out more about our soil from local non-profit: sciencemoab.org/radio/
  • Portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail. Human waste takes over a year to decompose in the desert. This keeps it clean for everyone after you. Buy one at any of our local gear shops before your visit.
  • Temperatures can easily reach upwards of 100 degrees. Exposure to the sun is extreme. Always travel with enough water and electrolytes for the length of your outing and the temperature of the season. It is important to have more water than you might expect.
  • Always let someone know where you are and when you expect to be back. Cell service is limited. Always stay found. If lost, stay where you are. Wandering makes it difficult for Search and Rescue to find you.
  • Recreate within your limits. There are few access points for Search and Rescue. It will take Search and Rescue time to get to injured individuals on the trail.

41 Total Climbs

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Location: Ice Cream Parlor Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ice Cream Parlor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 231
5.6 Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 189
Left Slab
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 151
Black Slab
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 107
Slab Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 227
Crack 1
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 173
Crack 3
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 138
Critical Mass
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 100
Crack 2
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 105
A Good Day to Die
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 189
Parlor Game
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 148
Brush Your Teeth
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Nightlight
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 82
Sticky Fingers
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 148
Hot Karl Sunday
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 113
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.6 Corner
 231
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Left Slab
 189
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Black Slab
 151
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slab Route
 107
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crack 1
 227
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 3
 173
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Critical Mass
 138
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 2
 100
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
A Good Day to Die
 105
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Parlor Game
 189
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brush Your Teeth
 148
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Nightlight
 41
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Sticky Fingers
 82
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hot Karl Sunday
 148
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
 113
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
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