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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
War Elephant S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 4,402 ft
GPS: 38.509, -109.6 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 77,707 total, 409/month
Shared By: Greg D on May 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Great climbing on mostly excellent wingate in a beautiful canyon. It has some of the easiest climbing in the area. As a result, it sees a lot of visits from local guides with sometimes a dozen clients or more as well as large unguided groups. So expect crowds. Also, the road sees loads of ATV's which are loud and dusty. So, go on a weekday if possible.

There are several bolted slab routes as well as several crack routes. The difficulty ranges from 5.5 bolts to 5.12 trad, so there is something for everybody. Most routes are single pitch with anchors. But, there are a handful of multi pitch as well.

The lower left has some harder multi pitch. The slabs in the middle have lots of moderates and a few harder routes. The steeper rock to the right has some of the areas best routes but sees less traffic and is accessed by a ledge on the right.

The crag is west facing. So, it is great in the afternoon when it is cool and great in the mornings when it is hot.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

From Main St in Moab head west on Kane Creek Blvd (near McDonald's). After the pavement ends you will begin to enter into Kane Creek Canyon. Drive about 3.6 miles (YMMV) down into the canyon. The potable natural spring is at 2.2 miles, so check your milage here and extrapolate for your odometer. After a creek crossing (which is dry most of the year) the road turns sharply to the left. There is some parking near large boulders here but many people drive another 100 yards and park on the road. The access trail is better there.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ice Cream Parlor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.6 Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Slab
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 1
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Good Day to Die
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Parlor Game
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brush Your Teeth
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightlight
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
T-Rex
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.6 Corner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Black Slab 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slab Route 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crack 1 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 3 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Critical Mass 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 2 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
A Good Day to Die 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Parlor Game 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brush Your Teeth 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Nightlight 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Sticky Fingers 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hot Karl Sunday 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ice Cream Parlor Crack 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
T-Rex 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Ice Cream Parlor »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I think I may have left a pair of orange Scarpa climbing shoes and white black diamond helmet here. If anyone found it, I would be super grateful if you contacted me! Mar 12, 2017
rain cloud
the abyss (kansas)
rain cloud   the abyss (kansas)
This place is a zoo, literally like 2 dogs to each human, plus babies. Glad I showed up at the crack of dawn and left when the hoards showed up. good rock quality, fun climbs, shouldn't really complain. Apr 23, 2015
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
Some recent updates were in order. So, Scott H's post may not apply any longer. Jun 30, 2012
Scott H.
Sandy, UT
Scott H.   Sandy, UT
I had a bit of a hard time finding the location of this area based on the provided directions. I think a few things have changed over the years. Camping is not allowed at the pullout/ parking area and there are several cattle guards along Kane creek. I found it easiest if you head into the canyon from Moab. After descending into the canyon there is an intermittent stream crossing just after you pass a campsite area on the left. Then after the canyon begins to open up and the road turns to the left there is a pullout on the left for this area. I hope that helps. Dec 7, 2011
Reedrombo
Home is where you park it
Reedrombo   Home is where you park it
Reference Greg D's comment. I just climbed Ice Cream Parlor 2 days ago. There are quite a few sport slab climbs that are easy and fun. we swung over and top roped the 10 to the left side of the slab, thats actually the best slab climb i did during my entire stay in Moab, it was great! Its a great place, good view, we were sad it was the last place we checked out we didnt even get to make it down to the right side. Also, slab climb number 3 has two pitches. The second pitch is bolted as well and is really easy so good for multi pitch practice. The last bolt to the chains is pretty run out but you can literally walk to it. Good stuff! Mar 14, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
There is a route between Unknown 8 and 5.6 Corner that starts on either splitter fingers or a wide slot, then climbs through rubble to a two bolt anchor. It is incredibly loose between the initial splitter or offwidth and the anchors, and should be avoided at all cost. Toproping this route WILL cause rock fall. Mar 16, 2009
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
Here is a guide to put the routes in order from left to right. (updated 11/06/08)

Starting from the lower left: Pandemic 10+, Kura Burnan 12, Rattler 11.

Up the hill approx 50 feet/30 feet down and left from slabs: Unkown 8 (left slanting finger crack).

At the left side of slabs: 5.6 Corner, 10TR, Parlor Game 9 (3 bolts). Unkown 7 (approx 5 bolts).

Right of gully: Black Slab 6 (Bolts - 2 different starts), Slab 7 (bolts), Crack 3 8 TR, Crack 2 8R or TR, Crack 1 (aka Wolverine) 8, Hot Carl Sunday 10b/c bolts, RP City 10b, same start as RP City is Vanilla Cream 10a mixed.

traverse right on ledge to Freezer Burn and "Not RP City" 10a with one bolt at start then moves right into corner/crack system (incorrectly listed as RP City in Rock Climbing Utah).

A hundred yards right get on ledge and traverse left to (from left to right): A Good Day to Die 9, Ice Cream Parlor Crack 11b, Pulp Friction 11, The Coffin 9, The Possessed 11c bolts, Knee Grinder 9+ (right of and behind Possessed with same anchor).

Right of Knee Grinder (not 100% sure of the following. they all exist but not sure of order): Deathtrap 8, T-Rex II/11c/4 pitches, basterdized old route.

See topo: mountainproject.com/v/utah/… Apr 7, 2008
denise 911
fort collins, co
denise 911   fort collins, co
nice south facing wall with some good variety in routes. looks like they closed off the camping area for parking (or maybe due to jeep safari that was going on)? wide spot in the road still fits a few cars. Perfect setting for a relaxed afternoon at the crag. Mar 30, 2008
dkmzligon
Thornton, CO
dkmzligon   Thornton, CO
The Ice Cream Parlor is a great area for climbers that want a relaxed atmosphere. Great for families because it has climbs for all abilities (5.6 - 5.11). Good top anchors make setting top ropes a breeze. Apr 4, 2007
Climbed around here for the first time last week. Good fun. A few bolted routes (not in guide) around the 3-crack area. They appeared to be around 5.8/5.9's and a 5.10 far right. We climbed a crack just right of Knee Grinder (I think). The route went: up an "easy" water groove, through a dirty BD#4 bulge, thin fingers corner (i.e. hard to protect), right around a roof, up to some anchor/slings. The Bjornstad guide misrepresents this line (i.e. lists it twice differently). Anyone know what it is?? Mar 24, 2006
Saw the area 05/22/04. There are actually many more routes in the Ice Cream Parlor that have not made this site yet. A friendly group we met up there pointed out a 5.6 trad route to anchors, another 5.7 trad route to anchors, and we saw anchors for about three other routes that aren't in any guide books yet. I don't know any names or any other info on the newer routes... sorry. Though, we could have done more climbing if we had bigger cams... bring a big rack with big pro for some of the routes that are not on this site yet. Great area! May 24, 2004

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