Elevation: 4,402 ft
GPS: 38.509, -109.6 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 158,939 total · 718/month
Shared By: Greg D on May 12, 2002 with improvements by Joe Stern
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Great climbing on mostly excellent wingate in a beautiful canyon. It has some of the easiest climbing in the area. As a result, it sees a lot of visits from local guides with sometimes a dozen clients or more as well as large unguided groups. So expect crowds. Also, the road sees loads of ATV's which are loud and dusty. So, go on a weekday if possible.

There are several bolted slab routes as well as several crack routes. The difficulty ranges from 5.5 bolts to 5.12 trad, so there is something for everybody. Most routes are single pitch with anchors. But, there are a handful of multi pitch as well.

The lower left has some harder multi pitch. The slabs in the middle have lots of moderates and a few harder routes. The steeper rock to the right has some of the areas best routes but sees less traffic and is accessed by a ledge on the right.

The crag is west facing. So, it is great in the afternoon when it is cool and great in the mornings when it is hot.

Getting There

From Main St in Moab head west on Kane Creek Blvd (near McDonald's). After the pavement ends you will begin to enter into Kane Creek Canyon. Drive about 3.6 miles (YMMV) down into the canyon. The potable natural spring is at 2.2 miles, so check your milage here and extrapolate for your odometer. After a creek crossing (which is dry most of the year) the road turns sharply to the left. There is some parking near large boulders here but many people drive another 100 yards and park on the road. The access trail is better there.

38 Total Climbs

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Location: Ice Cream Parlor Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ice Cream Parlor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 202
5.6 Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 119
Black Slab
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 94
Slab Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 186
Crack 1
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 155
Crack 3
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 114
Critical Mass
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
Crack 2
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
A Good Day to Die
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 161
Parlor Game
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 113
Brush Your Teeth
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 32
Rain
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Nightlight
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 64
Sticky Fingers
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 127
Hot Karl Sunday
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 94
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.6 Corner
 202
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Black Slab
 119
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slab Route
 94
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crack 1
 186
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 3
 155
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Critical Mass
 114
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 2
 87
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
A Good Day to Die
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Parlor Game
 161
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brush Your Teeth
 113
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Rain
 32
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Nightlight
 35
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Sticky Fingers
 64
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hot Karl Sunday
 127
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
 94
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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