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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,572 total · 41/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A balancy first move or two on a sandstone slab, then easy cruising to the last bolt. Another balancy bit with smearing on varnish, then good holds to the anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is on the left side of the Ice Cream Parlor area. If the anchors above the left corner 5.6 crack are anchor #1, then this route climbs to anchor #3 (from the left). (There are another couple of anchors to the left of the slab area, but let's not complicate things).

Protection [Suggest Change]

3 bolts to hanger and ring anchors.

Photos

Pete Hunt  
 
This is run out from the third bolt to the anchor. If you blow it up top you're going to take a big ride, atleast 20 feet. The crux is in this section. May 18, 2009
phillipeb
salt lake city, Utah
phillipeb   salt lake city, Utah
Was just there yesterday. Still only three bolts. Oct 26, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Yup...only three bolts, still, making the last few moves committing and fun as hell. Psyche up for this one and get yer friction on. May 4, 2010
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
I was there on October 9th. There are 4 bolts, but still a pretty crazy runout after the 3rd. Kind of an odd traverse from the 4th bolt left to the anchors, too. Oct 12, 2010
anthony509 E
las vegas nv
  5.9
anthony509 E   las vegas nv
  5.9
3 bolts only--17 Nov 2010 Nov 18, 2010
optikal Freeman
SLC, UT
 
optikal Freeman   SLC, UT
 
To resolve the conflict between if Parlor Game has 3 bolts or 4 bolts, Parlor Game has 3 bolts. What I see referred to in the book I have, "Best Climbs Moab", calls "Left Slab" which 5 bolts (one looked new.) Left Slab is to the right of Parlor Game, and is directly adjacent (on the left) to the crack but isn't in most books and isn't presently on MP, but I will submit it now.

Here's a picture of me on Left Slab in May 2011, enlarge to see all 5 clips:
Sep 28, 2011
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
"Left Slab... isn't presently on MP..."

Your photo is of Left Slab.

Edit: I renamed the route linked above from "Unknown 5.7" to "Left Slab", which should explain this otherwise now non-sensical comment. Sep 28, 2011
Preston Havill
Redstone, CO
Preston Havill   Redstone, CO
I don't know if I would give it an R rating, as I don't think you would get hurt if you fell (properly) above the 3rd bolt, but the crux move is certainly committing, run out, and a bit scary compared to other 9's on low angle slabs in the area. And yes, fun as hell. Good climb! Oct 27, 2013
Matt Camblin
  5.9+ PG13
Matt Camblin  
  5.9+ PG13
Its around a 25 foot slide when your smears don't hold at the crux. Its a pretty bumpy ride, but other than a case of rope burn, nothing notable. Definitely PG-13 and runout as hell. Probably not the right route to try for my first shot at sandstone. Jun 13, 2015
joenathan97
  5.9+ PG13
joenathan97  
  5.9+ PG13
Update as of March 2016: Still only 3 bolts. Really have to commit after the third bolt and trust your shoes. Have a spotter for the first bolt as well. Mar 20, 2016

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