Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Gilje
Page Views: 3,301 total · 23/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

AKA: Roofs from Hell, The Separate Reality of Moab. Like the rest of Gilje's routes, this one ain't no gimme. Four distinct 5.11 cruxes: thin face, thin corner, overhanging jugs and a big roof-crack to finish makes for a multi-pitch Wingate route as action packed as any other in the desert.

pitch 1: thin vertical scoops protected by bolts. 5.11c, 100ft.

pitch 2: bolt protected climbing up corners and slabs. 5.10, 100 ft.

pitch 3: hard to protect thin corner directly above the spacious belay ledge. 5.11 pg13, 50ft.

pitch 4: The crux. Overhanging face to horizontal crack. 5.11c, 100ft.

Location

Far right side of the ice cream parlor. Look at the skyline and locate the imposing horizontal roof crack, then extrapolate downward to find the start of the route. The first pitch begins from a small ledge and is the only bolt protected line in the vicinity. Descent is via rappel from an anchor to the right of the top-out.

Protection

Lots of quickdraws for pitches 1, 2, and 4. The third pitch takes tiny nuts and a double set of cams from tiny to off-fingers. The final roof crack takes a double set from #.75 camalot to #3 camalot.

Photos