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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Josh Gross and Ralph Ferrara
Page Views: 2,197 total, 16/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 7, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This four pitch route is on the left end of the ice cream parlor.
P1 climb a thin crack 5.10 to a series of bolt protected face moves. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge
P2 Follow a 5.9 crack then traverse right on face moves to a ledge in the corner. Use hand size gear for the belay.
P3 Crux. Climb the slot corner to an odd stemming move. Clip a bolt at the crux, but take a few small nuts for pro too. Pass a rap anchor and continue up and left on a thin flake with bolts for gear. Belay at the double bolted ledge. A 60 meter rap on two ropes will get you back to earth from here.
P4 Climb the obvious OW crack, at 5.10, up from the belay to a fixed anchor. From here it is 50 meters down to the anchor midway up P3. From their a double rope rap will get you down.

Location

This is at the far left end of the ice cream parlor. Its labeled as route 1 in the photo.

Protection

Standard desert rack with doubles on most cams plus some smaller nuts and a few quickdraws.

Photos

Joshua Griffin
Glenwood Springs, CO
Joshua Griffin   Glenwood Springs, CO
I found it more enjoyable to climb the flake after the traverse on the second pitch rather than climbing the corner. Of course this isn't the original climb. Be careful of loose rock atop the flake if you go that way. Mar 10, 2016
swadeky
Moab, UT
  5.10
swadeky   Moab, UT
  5.10
Fun route, varied and interesting climbing, poor rock quality keeps it from being even 3 stars for me. Keep your head on a swivel and dont crank on anything too hard because itll break. If you dont like runouts a #6 might work for the last pitch (not sure), its not too hard though, just scary cuz of rock quality. I placed a #5 but didnt really need it, but placed 2 #4s. With a double rack and enough runners I reckon you could do the whole thing in 2 pitches. Apr 1, 2014
jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.10+
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.10+
A single set of BD cams from 00 C3 to a number five would do the job, no nuts needed. If anything a extra four for the last pitch is all you would need and the number five is for the last pitch only. Sep 27, 2012
started this route late in the day. Pitch 1 and 2 make you think... the traverse to the belay for the second on pitch 2 is sketch. I headed up the blank corner to the first set of anchors. Great stemming moves. we bailed with 2 60m ropes from there. need to finish this one. Dec 9, 2009
Lynn S  
I think the crux is the bulging hand crack on the last pitch, more like 5.11 to me. The moves on the previous pitch seemed much easier than pulling through the bulge. Fun route that gets you to the rim. You can link pitch 1 and 2. May 14, 2008