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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Eric Odenthal, Larry Harpe
Page Views: 2,745 total · 23/month
Shared By: Eric Odenthal on Oct 16, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Some sporty moves get you past the first two bolts, where it relaxes a bit, making great moves on what is now, great rock. During the FA I was gripped not to knock the death blocks off, Larry pulled those off, no problem. After a mantle trend right toward a great looking wide to finger crack. great gear in this section... and some reachy radical moves get you to the anchor. save a #6 hb offset for the top! enjoy!

Location

this route starts at the bolts 50 feet right of Vanilla Cream. begin up a short dihedral toward two bolts that head up into a dihedral. Anchors can be seen at the top of a thin crack below the roof up high.

Protection

one set will get you through, but 2 sets of cams from green alien to #3 Camelot will make things feel better. small/Medium size stoppers protect the upper crack... bring a few of those. some draws for the first two bolts and long slings for the mid section. tie a knot at the end of your rope if you belay below the ledge... it's a stretch.

Photos

Nice job guys, where do's RP City start? Oct 17, 2008
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
  5.10
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
  5.10
RP City starts to the right about 15 feet. Oct 17, 2008
Greg D
Here
  5.9+
Greg D   Here
  5.9+
Vanilla Cream and RP City have the same start. Vanilla Cream is a left facing corner that has had some bolts on it for years but was incomplete. RP City is the very thin seem left of this corner. Also, RP City is the first route right of Hot Carl Sunday. RP City is incorrectly labeled in some guide books such as Rock Climbing Utah which puts it 20 feet right of Vanilla Cream/RP City. That is another route which is quite good (10a) which starts after walking 30 feet right on a ledge to a one bolt start, gear the rest of the way. Oct 29, 2008
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
  5.10
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
  5.10
here's how it looks

hot karl sunday... 20 feet right is vanilla cream... 20 feet right is freezer burn... 15 feet right at the end of the ledge is rp city. Nov 4, 2008
Greg D
Here
  5.9+
Greg D   Here
  5.9+
Eric, your description of RP City is incorrect as is Rock Climbing Utah. RP City and Vanilla Cream have the same start. For RP City move up and left to a very thin seem with a two bolt anchor.

The route you mention "15 feet right at the end of the ledge" is a different route than RP City. ( A good route though) Once you climb the RP City I describe here you will know where the name came from.

here's how it looks

hot karl sunday... 20 feet right is rp city and vanilla cream... 20 feet right is freezer burn... 15 feet right at the end of the ledge is unknown 10a. Nov 7, 2008
Greg D
Here
  5.9+
Greg D   Here
  5.9+
Climbed this route on Sunday. The last 15 feet of the route make it worth while. The gear list above baffled me. I like to "sew it up" and I didn't place anything larger than a 1 camelot. A single set of cams and some nuts will do just fine. Nov 13, 2008
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
  5.10
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
  5.10
Hey GregD, did you knot think the moves past the bolt were harder than 5.9. How did you make it past the first bolt? I find those moves in the 5.10 realm for sure. Aug 11, 2009
Greg D
Here
  5.9+
Greg D   Here
  5.9+
Umm, last I checked, 9+ is harder than 9. So, to answer your question, yes, knot not harder than 9. Of course a subtle difference between 9+ and 10a. Perhaps I had a good breakfast that day. Oct 15, 2009
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very fun climb! And yes, be sure to bring a few small pieces! I think I used a blue alien at the top along with a nut. Super good 10! Aug 22, 2013
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
 
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
 
The last 15 ft are fantastic! Rad reachy finger locks and smears! Apr 19, 2018

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