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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor
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10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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5.6 Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Garcia Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climate Refugee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coffin Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Doghead Fish T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freezer Burn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Linda's Way T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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RP City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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T-Rex T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Eric Odenthal, Larry Harpe |
| Page Views: | 3,631 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Odenthal on Oct 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Some sporty moves get you past the first two bolts, where it relaxes a bit, making great moves on what is now, great rock. During the FA I was gripped not to knock the death blocks off, Larry pulled those off, no problem. After a mantle trend right toward a great looking wide to finger crack. great gear in this section... and some reachy radical moves get you to the anchor. save a #6 hb offset for the top! enjoy!
Location
this route starts at the bolts 50 feet right of Vanilla Cream. begin up a short dihedral toward two bolts that head up into a dihedral. Anchors can be seen at the top of a thin crack below the roof up high.
Protection
one set will get you through, but 2 sets of cams from green alien to #3 Camelot will make things feel better. small/Medium size stoppers protect the upper crack... bring a few of those. some draws for the first two bolts and long slings for the mid section. tie a knot at the end of your rope if you belay below the ledge... it's a stretch.
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