Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Eric Odenthal, Larry Harpe
Page Views: 3,118 total · 22/month
Shared By: Eric Odenthal on Oct 16, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Some sporty moves get you past the first two bolts, where it relaxes a bit, making great moves on what is now, great rock. During the FA I was gripped not to knock the death blocks off, Larry pulled those off, no problem. After a mantle trend right toward a great looking wide to finger crack. great gear in this section... and some reachy radical moves get you to the anchor. save a #6 hb offset for the top! enjoy!

Location

this route starts at the bolts 50 feet right of Vanilla Cream. begin up a short dihedral toward two bolts that head up into a dihedral. Anchors can be seen at the top of a thin crack below the roof up high.

Protection

one set will get you through, but 2 sets of cams from green alien to #3 Camelot will make things feel better. small/Medium size stoppers protect the upper crack... bring a few of those. some draws for the first two bolts and long slings for the mid section. tie a knot at the end of your rope if you belay below the ledge... it's a stretch.

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