Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Odenthal 12/5/12
Page Views: 9,375 total · 128/month
Shared By: Eric Odenthal on Dec 5, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


104 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Stemming leads to a varied crack on the left wall. Cam placements can be found before reaching the first bolt. Follow the ramp and dihedral to the final sandy section below the anchor.

Location

Just left of the 5.6 corner crack oh the left side of the slabs.

Protection

single rack camalots, .5- #3, 5 bolts, anchor

Photos

paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.9+ PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.9+ PG13
what a great route. in my humble opinion; probably the best route on the wall. way fun, varied moves. i used a small hex, a 3.5 (should have been a 3), and a .75 camalot before the first bolt. great vision on the fa. the clips are PERFECT. this thing had to be ground up. the rating is dead on. MUST DO if your up there. kudos to eric. Feb 15, 2013
Very nice mixed route, particularly for beginning leaders. Requires a piece (or two) before bolts. Not too difficult, but maybe a bit reachy for vertically challenged climbers. IMHO, probably closer to 5.8...but supremely FUN!
Apr 2, 2013
Rob Baumgartner
Niwot
 
Rob Baumgartner   Niwot
 
Is the crux up high? I led all but about the last 15 feet of this climb (then traversed right to the 5.6 Corner anchors) and marked it as "5.7+ish" in my notes last October. It was definitely a fun natural line, and having its own anchors will make it much better. May 10, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
This was such an amazing climb - my first Ice cream Parlor climb I believe! Everyone's beta is correct, use a .75 and 3 and you're golden. Have fun! Aug 22, 2013
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
I like using a .75 and a .5 Camalot to protect the initial moves on this, the crack that comes in to the left of the first bolt has some scary looking fractures in it. The bolted section is harder than it looks! Grade seems spot on. Jun 2, 2015
Scheid
Vail, CO
Scheid   Vail, CO
Awesome(!) larger hex placement on the left wall about 10 feet up. That and one cam in the .75-#2 range will get you to the bolts (I remember a couple placements to choose from). Sep 22, 2015
mtbmt -
 
mtbmt -  
 
Loved this route. Great climb and nice challenge at the crux about 3/4 the way up. Solid anchors above, and plenty of holds in the cracks -climbed 6-20-2018. Jun 26, 2018