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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor
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10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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5.6 Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Garcia Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climate Refugee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coffin Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Doghead Fish T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freezer Burn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard Shell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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In Bloom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Linda's Way T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Possessed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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RP City T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Shortest Day S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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T-Rex T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wasteland T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.5092, -109.5995 |
| FA: | Tom Gilge, Eric Decaria or Kevin Chase |
| Page Views: | 1,957 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Greg D on May 14, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is one of the best routes at the parlor yet one of the least climbed, probably because of a slightly dicey start and misinformation in guidebooks. It is quite varied and interesting on mostly good rock. There is face, crack, stemming, jambing and even a tiny roof. Mantle up some not so great rock below a single bolt that is about 15' above the ledge. There is a solid horizontal crack that will take a 1.5" piece if you like at this point. Then climb to the bolt and decipher how to get into the corner to your right . Then, climb straight up another 80 feet staying in the corner and cracks. Pull over a small roof. Then, twenty feet of easier but loose and unprotectable rock to a two bolt anchor. There is a bolt on the last 30 feet of easy climbing. Skip this bolt as it was unfortunately put in by the FA of Linda's Way next door.
Location
To access this route walk the ledge that starts below RP City all the way to its end. Use caution as you will be 20 feet above the ground at this point. There is no good options to anchor you belayer, so you should be solid getting to your first piece or two. A few moves of 5.8 or so. Alternately, you could have your belayer stay on the ground and only the leader walks the ledge to the start. That way if you blow it, you don't take your partner with you!
Beware of your rope length when rapping. A 60 meter will just barely reach the starting ledge but will not reach the ground.
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