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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
War Elephant S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Gilge, Eric Decaria or Kevin Chase
Page Views: 861 total, 13/month
Shared By: Greg D on May 14, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is one of the best routes at the parlor yet one of the least climbed, probably because of a slightly dicey start and misinformation in guidebooks. It is quite varied and interesting on mostly good rock. There is face, crack, stemming, jambing and even a tiny roof. Mantle up some not so great rock below a single bolt that is about 15' above the ledge. There is a solid horizontal crack that will take a 1.5" piece if you like at this point. Then climb to the bolt and decipher how to get into the corner to your right . Then, climb straight up another 80 feet staying in the corner and cracks. Pull over a small roof. Then, twenty feet of easier but loose and unprotectable rock to a two bolt anchor. There is a bolt on the last 30 feet of easy climbing. Skip this bolt as it was unfortunately put in by the FA of Linda's Way next door.

Location

To access this route walk the ledge that starts below RP City all the way to its end. Use caution as you will be 20 feet above the ground at this point. There is no good options to anchor you belayer, so you should be solid getting to your first piece or two. A few moves of 5.8 or so. Alternately, you could have your belayer stay on the ground and only the leader walks the ledge to the start. That way if you blow it, you don't take your partner with you!

Beware of your rope length when rapping. A 60 meter will just barely reach the starting ledge but will not reach the ground.

Protection

Single set of cams to 3 including some micros. Set of small to medium nuts.

Photos

Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Ok. So that makes more sense. I have the "high on moab" in my hand as we speak. It is clear he took some info straight off of this site and my information. He lists "Not RP city" as a route name. It is not. That is a name I made up when I didnt' know the real name of the route we now know is Pork Soda. It was incorrectly called RP city in some older guide books, which is why I called it Not RP City. But, RP city is a few routes left. Furthermore, High on Moab lists Pork Soda as a variation to RP City, yet it mentions A Good Day to Die as the start. All three of these routes have their own unique stars probably 40 feet apart, or more, so maybe 80 feet between RP City and A Good Day To Die.

The route you climbed that shares the same start as A Good Day to Die (not a Good Way To Die, as you called it) is still unknown, at least as far as Mountain Project and High on Moab is concerned, not sure about Best Climbs in Moab. But, these climbing "authors" these days are getting there info from this site, among other source, so, in this case, from me,.

You climbed a variation to A Good Day to Die. I have not climbed it, I have looked at it, and plan to climb it some day. Mar 23, 2017
Greg,

After checking the guide,Best climbs in Moab, and I am told "High on moab"also, the climb Pork Soda is started in the same corner system as "A good day to die" per the guide. Your picture shows the climb Pork Soda about 60 feet to the left of AGDTD,not above it. So the new? guides are wrong. As far as the remaining gear,it is a BD 4,new one and a Metolius no. 3. straight up the crack through the roof above AGDTD before clipping any bolts. Anyone know what the climb name/grade is. I did spy a 2 bolt anchors before I fell. Mar 23, 2017
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Undermyownpower, are you sure you were on the route that you see in the photo above. It is an independent line. It does not split off another route. After the small roof, near the finish, the angle kicks back as you climb a hollow flake with no worthwhile gear, 5.7 or easier after the roof. And I can't imagine anywhere one could place a bd 4. Did you mean .4?

I'm not sure a route condition is in order which is intended to report something has changed that is worth warning others such as a new hazard has appeared. You are just reporting your experience. Mar 23, 2017
The route was great up to the small upper roof. I plugged in a BD 4 and a no 3 metolius. went up expecting there to be something other than a slick insecure layback on a thin flake. I saw no gear and no way to jam. Took a 20 footer and got a little banged up but otherwise ok. I used the falcon "Best climbs in Moab" guide. Claimed this was a 5.9 route.
1)Booty alert-get those pieces before they rot.

2) for a "Best climb" I am surprised. My gear is still there after a week. I saw it yesterday before we left. This is during spring break. I also spoke with some of the guide shops in town and no one they know of has climbed this route. This is the climb that splits from "A Good Way To Die."

I guess I am just butt hurt because I got shut down on a 5.9/10! I would like to know if anyone has done this and found the difficulties I did. To me it climbed harder than 10c/that is my limit to most climbs.
Thanks for any clarification on the route
Keith Mar 23, 2017
budman
Moab,UT
budman   Moab,UT
Actually this route is Pork Soda, info given to me from Tom Gilje via the Prez. Sep 6, 2012
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
This route has been incorrectly listed in some guide books as RP City and I called it "not rp city" in my topo because the name was unknown at the time. May 14, 2012