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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Gilje, Julie Sheld, 1995
Page Views: 1,785 total, 15/month
Shared By: Greg D on Jan 26, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a great route as it tests your nerves more than anything.

Start up easy cracks and ledges. Then commit to the thin seam up and left. Place gear when it is available because placements are intermittent but good when you get them, although gear may occupy your only hold at times. When the crack peters out move up and left to the 2 bolt anchor.
In the middle of the climb you can move out left, do a few face moves and back right to the crack for a slightly easier option as the crack and friction moves feel pretty desperate here. If you toprope this climb be sure to have the rope a bit "loose" as any tension can make this climb quite a bit easier.

Location

This route is on the far right side of the Ice Cream Parlor slabs. It starts 30 feet right of the bolted line HOT CARL SUNDAY which is just right of Crack 1 (aka WOLVERINE). It is also about 80 feet left of A Good Day To Die. This route is unmistakable, it is one of a kind for this area as it is a very thin seam/crack splitting beautifully varnished rock to a 2 bolt anchor(was a 1 bolt anchor for many years until spring 07).

This route is incorrectly described on the topo of Rock Climbing Utah showing it climbing the arete on the right side of the slabs. That is a different yet good climb which starts from the far right side of the ledge, past one bolt, into the crack/corner, finishing over a small roof just right of the arete (about 10a). Single 60m rope rappel just barely get you back to the ledge. Caution: the ledge is about 20 feet above the ground.

Protection

small cams and nuts/rp's up to 2 inches, heavy on the small stuff.

Photos

Eric Odenthal
  5.10+ PG13
Eric Odenthal  
  5.10+ PG13
One of the best at the ICP for the commitment and boldness. Crux is a runout with a #2 and #4 Rp. Heads up! Exciting all the way to the anchor. If you pass the original anchor (clipping it for your follower) and lower off the anchor of Rain it's exactly 60 meters. Dec 15, 2015