Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Baker, Andy Roberts
Page Views: 6,181 total · 47/month
Shared By: Greg D on Apr 7, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Start up a slightly left slanting off fingers crack, move right (rock is poor if continuing left) then head back left and up to anchors on a right facing wall.


This route starts 30 feet left and slightly down the hill from 5.6 Corner.


Camalots .4 to 1. An extra .5 or .75 and a few medium nuts to sew it up.


Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I sewed it up pretty well with single cams from blue Zero (about .3 C4) up to #4 friend. After the initial fingers section, it mellows out A LOT, but the rock gets much worse. Mar 16, 2009
A. Roberts
Boulder, CO
A. Roberts   Boulder, CO
If this ends at/below a rotten rock choked dihedral, then it's called Critical Mass. Thinking it was the last route that could be sneaked in to the area. Of course we were wrong. F.A. Mike Baker, Andy Roberts, and Wilson Goodrich. Oct 12, 2009
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
A fun little route away from the crowds of the main crag. Lots of little edges around the crack make for some good rests. Jun 12, 2011
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
I wish the initial crack could just go the whole way to the anchors! This is a great lead for those new to the grade, plenty of pro and rests. Probably closer to a 5.7. Jun 2, 2015
Jake Web
Denver, CO
Jake Web   Denver, CO
This was my favorite lead in ice cream parlor! Great climb! Less slabby and more vertical so it was a lot more fun then cracks 1-3 in my opinion.

Also very protected. I have a double set of camalots from .2-3 and had a few extras to spare, but pretty much sewed the whole climb up. Never once felt run out. Also managed to fit get a nut in there. Oct 20, 2016