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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor
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10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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5.6 Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Garcia Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climate Refugee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coffin Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Doghead Fish T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freezer Burn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard Shell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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In Bloom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Linda's Way T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Possessed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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RP City T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Shortest Day S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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T-Rex T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wasteland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 38.5092, -109.5995 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 9,895 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Tradkelly on Dec 3, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs. The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1. The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors. A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!
Excellent easier route in the area. This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left). Rap or lower 75'.
Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors. The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.
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