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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,637 total · 33/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Dec 3, 2001 with updates from Eriks Rozners
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs. The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1. The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors. A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!

Excellent easier route in the area. This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left). Rap or lower 75'.

Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors. The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.

Protection

Small gear to a #1 camalot and a couple of small wires (#2 RP works nicely). Two-bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.8-
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.8-
Fun with small gear for the crack. A nice way to start or end the day in a spectacular setting. We were here after climbing at Wall Street all day and enjoyed the cool evening and light at 5:00. Mar 16, 2004
Rod
 
Rod  
 
This was a fun, short route. For me, as an intermediate climber, it was a good route to increase my foot placement skills and increase my trust in my feet. When you get to the crack with the varnish, you can concentrate on placing your feet on small features and use the crack for balancing hand placements. This would also be a great warm-up route. Sep 14, 2004
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
I'm pretty sure this climb is called Wolverine. Oct 5, 2006
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
It is Wolverine. There are two more pitches to this route at 5.11. Feb 10, 2008
Mark L  
If I remember correctly this crack had a few thin moves with little to jam, protect or toe cam about half way up for those with larger fingers/feet. not R but I couldn't plug a piece in near this section. May 13, 2008
Josh Cameron
California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   California
  5.8
A fun climb with great finger locks. Seemed like there was a long reach to a good finger lock. If your here and you lead 5.8, then be sure to get on this climb. Jun 12, 2011
Mark Melvin   Moab
Okay, the description for Wolverine is simply wrong. Crack 1 is a nice route, separate of Wolverine, which is more or less 5.8. Wolverine could take off from the belay anchor of Crack 1 or Crack 2 or Crack 3. It is the next two pitches up the very steep face. And it is rated 5.11, according to descriptions. Super simple: Crack 1: 5.8. Wolverine: 5.11. I only did the first pitch of Wolverine, which I'd say is 5.10b to about half way, but I think very hard 5.11 to the bottom of the roof, maybe 5.11d (could be more, involves a finger pocket with off-angle foot moves to a pinch and slot, then grovel to the roof, which lost me the on-sight, full disclosure and major bummer). The roof is well protected with two bolts, and the moves are probably 5.11b, maybe easier. I didn't do the second pitch. If anyone knows how to change the initial description to fix the error to correct this information, I would recommend it. Gear for the first pitch is two or three tiny cams, and then a couple each up to maybe .75 camelot, and one each to #3. It's a very good route though, maybe 3 stars out of 4. Incidentally, Crack 2 is really a 5.8X or toprope, easy, but not a lead. Oct 12, 2013
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.8 PG13
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.8 PG13
I recall the last 10 feet or so of the first pitch being effectively unprotected. Not difficult climbing, even compared to the rest of the climb, but I had to toss in my smallest, aid-only nut for sufficient psych to get to the chains.
A fun finger-sized splitter, a rarity for the grade. Feb 1, 2015
Mark Says
Aspen, CO
 
Mark Says   Aspen, CO
 
One only wishes the bottom of this was more of the same instead of a 5.easy scramble. Good hands, no shortage of feet, it's a great place to learn gear. Oct 10, 2017
Scott Morris
Bountiful, UT
  5.8
Scott Morris   Bountiful, UT
  5.8
This is a great climb for the grade. Fun moves with excellent protection along with several textbook nut placements. Can't wait to come back and do it again. Feb 19, 2018

More About Crack 1

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