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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Gilje, Bob Novellino
Page Views: 3,881 total, 35/month
Shared By: Dustin B on Sep 28, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Route pulls the low roof on fist jams and face holds, then continues up the corner. At the top of the corner climb on inside the coffin.

Location

Route is to the right of Ice Cream Parlor Crack and left of Possesed.

Protection

#3 camalots protect the roof and some small cams and stoppers protect the corner. Once inside the squeeze chimney no gear should be needed, but there is a crack on climbers left in the back corner that takes stoppers and small cams, your follower may curse you if you protect this crack though, as it is tough to get over and work in there.

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I climbed this one a few days ago expecting a solid 5.9 crack experience, I had no idea how tall the coffin would be. After placing my #6, I slugged my way in and started working my way up, with no technique I was scared shitless that I would fall and get stuck so I set a red nut and small blue camalot and bailed, if I did it again I’d bring a big bro, maybe 2, that crack is tight and scary! I second not wearing a helmet, it’ll only trip you up at the beginning of “the coffin” Nov 17, 2017
Adam Fleming
Dillon, CO
  5.10- PG13
Adam Fleming   Dillon, CO
  5.10- PG13
Don't wear your helmet on this one.
I only rated it PG13 because there is no gear in the chimney, even if you're unlikely to fall. If you're unfamiliar with chimneys, the runout may give you some butterflies. The roof you have to pull is not your typical roof crack; you can decide what that means for yourself. Nov 14, 2017
YEAH DUDE! it was burly and full value. old school 5.9 yos rating. so freaking classic though. a 3.5 camelot protects the roof, some small tcu's are good to have. I place a 4.5, #5, #6 camelot before the squeeze. once in the squeeze, struggle, grunt, suffer... do you have the technique? I placed a #4 big bro (my first big bro placement) half way up. psyched! 100' to the right of the anchor to the deck. Oct 19, 2009