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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Howe
Page Views: 5,348 total, 41/month
Shared By: Zeb Kenyon on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

To the right of Crack 1 is a line of bolts up a slab. The line pulls a bulge and leads up to a right facing corner. The bolts become much more frequent as things thin out.

Location

Slab right of Crack 1.

Protection

9 bolts to rap rings.
ljh aren't you from PA or someplace? You could put this conversations to bed. May 7, 2017
Anchors could use some lovin' if anyone is motivated... Oct 7, 2015
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
The comments in this thread are hilarious. Fun climb that is certainly well-bolted at the top. May 15, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Did this one this past spring! So much fun and a must do! Nov 4, 2013
ljh
ljh  
Hilarious debate.
I gave it the 11a rating on first free ascent--so guess I'm the soft one!
But FAs are always different from subsequent ascents all who do them know. And it's on ss so could be 5.6 or 5.13 by tomorrow.
Never knew what the route actually got named in the end—not a fan. Oct 3, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Beside the fact that there's not much pride to be drawn from sending a 9 and calling it a 10c (your bros are bound to find out and ridicule you next time you're spraying at the gym), I just noticed someone has this at 5.11.
I wonder if he'd burst into flames if he approached a slab in PA or got within a 100' of Tyrel? Jun 27, 2013
H..
Washingtonville NY
H..   Washingtonville NY
I did this climb last year, and though my memory is a little fuzzy, I did toproped it clean, at a time where there was no way I could toprope any 5.10s, so I have to agree with Tyler on the 5.9. I agree with boissal that different places have different takes on grades, but id say, if anything, inflating grades is compensation for pride, not the other way around. Jun 27, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Haha, burn. Downgrading ICP... Your so hard, bro. May 12, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Tyrel: it would be 11c in Maple and probably 5.7 in JTree or Yosemite. Also, keep in mind that nobody gives two fucks about your glory years climbing in PA... I'm glad you feel like downgrading makes your dick seem bigger but if all you're doing with it is stick up your own ass you're not gaining much. Keep being a tool bro! May 12, 2013
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.9
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
  5.9
Is this really still going on?! I am not referring to the current grades that people are considering most slabs at safe harbor. Talk to a REAL safe harbor local, that has been climbing there for 20+ years. Since safe harbor has opened in the last two years, I have seen many of the moderate routes jump up in grade as much as two numbers there. This whole discussion is stupid. Hot Karl Sunday us PISS easy for 10a, much less 10c. Be honest, its 5.9. May 11, 2013
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
5.10c
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
5.10c
I've climbed at Safe Harbor and Hot Karl Sunday is definitely harder than any 5.9 I've climbed there. Btw, I had a great laugh when I saw Safe Harbor pop up in the Moab section. Apr 6, 2013
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.9
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
  5.9
I appreciate the invitation but I will probably pass on it. There are more than enough slab routes in PA, and if I make the drive/flight to Utah I will be more interested in cracks.

Besides, I am really not a sandbagger, I just have really nice slab climbing shoes ;) Jun 8, 2011
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Hmmm... Well grades are subjective and relative. Though it's interesting that in 17 people who have suggested a grade for this route, you are the only one who thinks it's even close to 5.9, yet all the rest of us gave it at least 5.10 or higher.

Tyrel, you must be the slab dancing master then. Good job!! I've got a couple of EASY slabs in LCC you should come try and then downgrade them for us... They maybe rated hard, but I'm sure you'll find them to be much much easier. Jun 7, 2011
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.9
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
  5.9
No, I am serious, I am certain I was on the right route. I have never onsighted a slab route harder that 5.10b and that was a terribly desperate affair. Every move on this route was secure but the climbing was sustained at 5.9 for the last few bolts. I did think it was a great climb, and I appreciated the close proximity of protection bolts on it, but it was definitely not 5.10. Jun 7, 2011
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
HA HA you're funny Tyrel! Barely 5.9 eh... 5.10 in my book and pretty much any where in this country me thinks. Sure you were on the right route man? There are a couple of 5.9 slabs there as well. Bet those were what you were on..? Jun 6, 2011
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
  5.9
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
  5.9
This would barely squeak by at 5.9 in Safe Harbor, PA Jun 5, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10c
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10c
This is a really fun climb. If you like cool, balancey, well protected moves do this climb! I agree that this is 10c. Mar 27, 2009
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
Best route on this side of the Ice Cream Parlor. Good length and very consistent climbing the whole way. Apr 21, 2008
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
9 bolts + anchor, not 8... Great slab, lots of balancy moves on tiny nothings, protects very well. Apr 7, 2008
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
I agree with the previous comment about a .10c rating. Feels kind of soft for .11a. Very safe lead w/ the crux up high on the route. May 2, 2007
Zeb Kenyon
Holladay, UT
 
Zeb Kenyon   Holladay, UT
 
I identified this route after I had climbed it by matching the description on RC.com where it is rated 5.11a. I felt 5.10c was more on par with the slab climbing in LCC. Mar 26, 2007