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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,047 total · 14/month
Shared By: Greg D on May 14, 2012 with updates from Zach Weyn
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a fun and somewhat technical slab/face route that has no protection. It is necessary to climb Parlor Game, then traverse left to setup a tr on existing two bolt anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

In the middle of the left most lower angle slabs at Ice Cream. Left of Parlor Game (a 5.9 with three bolts and anchor), right of 5.6 Corner.

Protection [Suggest Change]

No protection. Climb Parlor Game, the traverse left to the anchors on this one to set up a top rope.

Photos

"10 TR" is between "Parlor Game" on the right and "5.6 Corner" on the left. "10 TR is now bolted with 6 bolts plus chains(the book "Best Climbs Moab" calls this "Top Rope"). Mar 22, 2015
Tyler Slack
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Tyler Slack   Eagle Mountain, Utah
I agree with Chan. 10 TR is now bolted and needs a new name. Are we a couple of the first people to lead this route now that it's bolted. One of the books rated it a 5.9+ and that's probably accurate on TR. On lead it definitely deserves to keep a 5.10a rating, but some could argue for a 5.10b, even. Sketchy feet and just a left crimper at the crux make for some scary moments when you're moving up above your protection.

Rakkup (pretty cool app I've recently discovered, albeit competition to MP) calls this one Dicey Face and shows the bolts and rates it a 5.9+ PG. Mar 22, 2015
Well bolted. Thin moves. 5.9/5.10a seems about right. May 9, 2017
The climb in the photo is not the 5.10TR, this is Sticky Fingers 5.10. The 5.10TR is just right 15'. Nov 10, 2017
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
I have not been there in a while. But, I will take Eric's word for it. 10TR still exists as it always has, no bolts. Sticky Fingers is a newer, independent line 15 left of 10TR and right of 5.6 Corner. Nov 12, 2017

More About 10 TR

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