Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dan Mannix, Alison Sheets, 1986
Page Views: 8,819 total, 50/month
Shared By: Anthony Everhart on May 3, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


67 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

When you park and look at the Ice Cream Parlor this is the snazzy looking crack on the right side of the crag. Take the path that leads to the right and onto a large ledge. This crack is a really beefy flake in a very open book. The start is spicy then you break into 50ft of perfect yellow tcus, a bulge where the crack widens and flares then to the bolt anchor. Total desert style, stem on the smears, crank the fingers, fire the cams and get moving.Anthony Everhart

Protection

Set of tcus with 6ish .75s and a #1 camalot, double bolt anchor. No nuts.
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
.75's definitely don't fit. I took 5 of them and realized i was screwed about half way up. I ended up running it out and .11- isn't easy climbing for me. Definitely bring alot of .4 and .5's for this one. It's an excellent climb. May 23, 2011
Michael Dom
  5.11-
Michael Dom  
  5.11-
Prepare to work the same move on repeat once you get into the crack. When I climbed it I remember placing those cams blindly. Dec 22, 2015
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
It's easy to climb the 5.9 to the left and TR this crack! Oct 12, 2010
acouncell
Estes Park, CO
acouncell   Estes Park, CO
yeah...but mike, you're a badass! :) May 30, 2010
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
Skyeler's gear list is accurate. .75 is useless on this pitch. I protected the start with a #2 camalot in an undercling. Then a #4 (old size) below the finger crack. 2x .3, 4x .4, 2-3 .5's for the biz. Nov 3, 2009
Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
Gear List: (1) .3, (6-7) .4, and one 4 or 5 Camalot. Orange TCU's work very well also.

Totally kickass pitch and much better than Blue Gramma, its IC rival! Nov 20, 2008
jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.11-
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.11-
Not .75 it takes.5's
May 6, 2008