Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Sam Lightner and Josh Gross
Page Views: 1,793 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 7, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climbs an overhanging bolted line at the left side of the ICe Cream Parlor. Start at a crack, traverse out right then over a roof, out a bulge and onto small crimps. A devious crux awaits. After that you get a rest and then some technical arete moves. A bolted anchor is on the higher ledge.

Location

At the left end of the Ice Cream Parlor. It shares a start with Rattler and is labeled #2 on the Pandemic photo.

Protection

A dozen quickdraws. A longer one where the route doglegs is handy for drag.

Photos

Didn't finish, got stuck at the crux. Based on the single photo, looks like I was too far left trying to snag the credit card right below that bolt which made it much harder, closer to a V6-7 face move. Really stellar 10+ and 11- climbing up to the crux. That first bolt is pretty high (about 15 ft if I recall) but 5.9 climbing to grab it. Bring a stick clip if you're a safe climber. Sep 13, 2018