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Routes in Ice Cream Parlor

10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coffin Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freezer Burn T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linda's Way T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Possessed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
RP City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Rex T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Tom Gilje, Julie Sheld, 1995
Page Views: 4,735 total, 24/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Dec 3, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The direct start is a 15' face of vertical unvarnished sandstone nubs to a short section of unvarnished slab. If led, this is a PG section and a spotter is recommended. The alternate approach is to traverse the lower slab from the blocks at the base of Crack 1.

Another good fingers and thin hands crack, with more surface fractures (varnish has broken off leaving pockets of sandstone beneath) for your feet. This is the 'stickiest' of the three cracks for your feet and not as intense as either Crack 1 or 2. Lead or TR this climb and use the Crack 1 anchors.

Protection

Small gear (wires and cams to #1 camalot). Use the Crack 1 anchors (15' traverse at the end of the crack).

Photos

Mark Says
Aspen, CO
 
Mark Says   Aspen, CO
 
Bolts protect the section up to the crack. Used a nut and a 0 and felt exceptionally safe moving up this. Not quite enough crack to feed an addiction, just enough to start one. Oct 10, 2017
It is hard to consider this a crack climb. Apr 22, 2017
Mathias
Loveland, CO
Mathias   Loveland, CO
We thought this was a sport route when we started up. The guide reads right to left with very little info, MP left to right. It wasn't easy to tell what we were climbing until we researched later. Anyhow, my GF got up to the 3rd bolt and found, to her surprise, no more bolts. She came down and got some gear to finish it up, but no big stuff. So she had to come down again and just didn't want to go up again. I finished up the last 15 feet or so.

The message to anyone looking to climb this is: It's a TRAD ROUTE. And felt a little stiff for the grade to both of us. May 24, 2015
Chris Perkins
Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.8
Chris Perkins   Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.8
This has 3 bolts on the lower section now. Not sure when they were added. Oct 18, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8
If you've done Crack 1, then give this guy a go. I felt it was slightly harder than the previous. For the upper half, I used small cams from a #1 to #3 Metolius. I liked the nature of this route: slab climbing on small nubins to a thin and inconsistent crack. Jun 12, 2011
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Cracks 1, 2 and 3 are not even close to vertical. Oct 15, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
This route has its own anchors. May 28, 2007