PRINT: Rock Climb Left Slab, Southeast Utah

Left Slab

5.7, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 199 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Kane Springs Ca… > Ice Cream Parlor

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Very mellow sandstone slab climb with plenty of handholds. Starts out and goes most of the way on bare sandstone with gradually increasing varnish from about half way.

There are some hollow sounding areas, particularly to the right, so if you weigh in at 250, you might want to only delicately yard on the holds.

Location

This is on the left side of the Ice Cream Parlor area. If the anchors above the left corner 5.6 crack are anchor #1, then this route climbs to anchor #4 (from the left). (There are another couple of anchors to the left of the slab area, but let's not complicate things). It is just left of a broken depression in the slab area.

Protection

5 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

All smiles on this cruiser sandstone slab

Top of Left Slab with all clips visible

Start

Heading Up

Left slab 5.7, 4 draws

At the top of the climb under tall vertical cliffs.

near the top of left slab (5.7)

Ethan nearing the fourth bolt.

Eleven-year-old Ethan clipping the first bolt.

Left Slab 5.7

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT

5.7

I was told by another climber at Ice Cream Parlor that this route is 5.7. I thought it was a little easier than what I'm used to at 5.7; your mileage may vary. Apr 22, 2007

Josh C
Somewhere out West

5.6

Felt 5.6 to me. Doesn't have as distinct of a crux as Black Slab, but overall felt like it had better quality movement. Might be a little heady for a 5.6 leader to get to the first bolt, but the holds are all there. Jun 12, 2011

optikal Freeman
SLC, UT

5.6

Felt 5.6 to me too. No real apparent crux Sep 28, 2011

William Thiry
Las Vegas

5.7

5.7 may be a fair rating for a move or two near the 1st/2nd bolt, but otherwise a nice mellow warm-up climb.

Stepping up to the anchors is the real crux. A tall guy like me can easily reach up and clip in a quickdraw or slip the rope into the cold shuts, but stepping up to rig up a rappel requires a move more difficult than a 5.7 unless you grab the chains. A shorter person will find reaching the anchors to be the crux move. Feb 16, 2014

Tony Pag

5.7

As of August 2016 this route has mussy hooks at the top.

We both thought it was a bit easier but more fun than Black Slab. Aug 12, 2016

Jordan Whitley
NC

5.7

Thought this was a lot more fun than the Black Slab to the right. Good handholds for sandstone climbing and a good number of bolts. Not as heavily varnished as the Black Slab. Feb 11, 2018

mtbmt -

Fun route to climb. Plenty of small holds, 4 solid bolts and two nice anchors above. In some guidebooks, this route is listed as Unnamed. My 14 YO led this climb and did it with ease --climbed 6-23-2018. Jun 26, 2018