The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Bob Bradley |
Page Views: | 32,303 total · 119/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a great route at an even grade. Hike around to the west side of the large (100 feet) flatiron that leans up against the rock. The route begins where the flatiron ends.
P1. Climb a left-facing corner with two small trees, continue up cracks and turn the right side of a roof, and traverse right to a good ledge with a 2 bolt anchor (5.8, 150 feet). The cracks just to the right, behind the flatiron, are bushy and not nearly as fun.
P2. Climb the beautiful hand crack in a blank slab, and belay at a horn (slung with webbing/cord) below a wide bulge (5.8, 100 feet).
P3. Climb over a 5.8 bulge into a flared chimney that leads to the top.
P1. Climb a left-facing corner with two small trees, continue up cracks and turn the right side of a roof, and traverse right to a good ledge with a 2 bolt anchor (5.8, 150 feet). The cracks just to the right, behind the flatiron, are bushy and not nearly as fun.
P2. Climb the beautiful hand crack in a blank slab, and belay at a horn (slung with webbing/cord) below a wide bulge (5.8, 100 feet).
P3. Climb over a 5.8 bulge into a flared chimney that leads to the top.
Descent
Per Nick Wilder: there is an easy West descent - it requires a 60m rope only.
From the very top, easily walk down the ramp 20 feet to the north, then scramble (4th Class) west back into the chimney, and cross over to some stout bolts on the west side of the chimney. One bolt is just visible from the summit. The bolts face north and have a chain but no rings. We slung the rope through the quicklinks.
Rap 15 feet to a ledge, and continue 80 feet more to a large boulder with another rap station hidden underneath. Use knots - you'll be near the end of the rope, but a 60m reaches fine.
Another 50' easy rap from there, and you're on the ground with an easy walk back.
From the very top, easily walk down the ramp 20 feet to the north, then scramble (4th Class) west back into the chimney, and cross over to some stout bolts on the west side of the chimney. One bolt is just visible from the summit. The bolts face north and have a chain but no rings. We slung the rope through the quicklinks.
Rap 15 feet to a ledge, and continue 80 feet more to a large boulder with another rap station hidden underneath. Use knots - you'll be near the end of the rope, but a 60m reaches fine.
Another 50' easy rap from there, and you're on the ground with an easy walk back.
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