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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Bradley
Page Views: 23,862 total, 116/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great route at an even grade. Hike around to the west side of the large (100 feet) flatiron that leans up against the rock. The route begins where the flatiron ends.

P1. Climb a left-facing corner with two small trees (or perhaps one?-bad memory), continue up cracks and turn the right side of a roof, and traverse right to a good ledge (5.8, 150 feet). The cracks just to the right, behind the flatiron, are bushy and not nearly as fun.

P2. Climb the beautiful hand crack in a blank slab and belay at a horn (now gone) (5.8, 100 feet).

P3. Climb over a 5.8 bulge into a flared chimney that leads to the top.

Protection

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot with optional #4 for pitch 3.

Descent

Per Nick Wilder: Easy West Descent - 60m rope only.

From the very top, easily walk down the ramp 20 feet to the north, then scramble (4th class) west back into the chimney and cross over to some stout bolts on the west side of the chimney. One bolt is just visible from the summit. The bolts face north and have a chain but no rings. We slung the rope through the quicklinks.

Rap 15 feet to a ledge, and continue 80 feet more to a large boulder with another rap station hidden underneath. Use knots - you'll be near the end of the rope, but a 60m reaches fine.

Another 50' easy rap from there and you're on the ground with an easy walk back.
OK, so next time I ought to read a more current guidebook I guess. Not that much has changed on the route, but 20 years ago authors were a bit more, um, "stingy" with route details. My punishment for not doing that was getting completely lost 'n confused at the top. I had no clue where to go from the top of that cool, thin fin. Went climber's left to that minor summit - BZZZT! Wrong. Sketchy downclimb. Didn't like what looked like unprotected climbing to the right summit AKA the "very top". Ultimately traversed leftwards on the right side face to get across the deep pit there. Still had a hard time finding the bolts. See the photo I posted. Oct 24, 2017
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
My partner linked P2 and P3 today, and we discovered it takes virtually an entire 70m rope to get from the belay bolts at the top of P1 to the flatish alcove just below the summit of the crag. Also, like others have said, and I will emphasize, if you are looking for that perfect splitter on P2 it doesn't really exist. It is a crack alright, but the typical flaring crack that might seem pretty insecure to you unless you are accustomed to Lumpy's granite characteristics. Finally, the bulge on P3 isn't quite the end of "the business". It is still tricky and strenuous for a few more meters until it finally eases up higher in the slot. It is worth doing the P3 at least once, though, as that last bit of easy stuff in the chimney/slot will have you doing some really odd and fun stemming and grabbing of odd flakes. Sep 4, 2017
Dom R
Estes Park, Colorado
Dom R   Estes Park, Colorado
If you're thinking about doing George's Tree, the second pitch of this is a good intro to the style of climbing on that route, though far less sustained. Jul 31, 2016
Joselyn Todd
  5.8+
Joselyn Todd  
  5.8+
This was an awesome route but strenuous for someone just learning to crack climb. P1 - right turn under the roof is a lot of fun. P2 - crack is somewhat flared and got a bit thin under the chimney but plenty of gear placements. Be careful NOT TO BELAY under the squeeze into the chimney. Squeeze into the flaring chimney, and then above this there is a ledge with a "rope bucket" that one can belay from for P3. P3 - fun climbing- exposure. Getting off of the summit, we took the eastern route. We scrambled and then rapped with a 70 m rope. It is hard to imagine doing this with a 60 m rope as we were glad to have knots at the end of our 70. Nice photo of the pitches.. Jul 31, 2016
skye bacus
Lakewood, CO
 
skye bacus   Lakewood, CO
 
We used a 60m rope and made it to the ledge with bolted anchors after P1 with only a little rope and gear to spare. I was able to link P2 with the P3 bulge (a #4 was clutch) and some of the chimney up to a nice belay ledge on the left with little rope and gear to spare (nice natural anchor here and there is literally a rock bucket for you to put your rope in!!! This is maybe one of my favorite belay ledges of all time). Lots of placements for wires after the bulge...which is nice if you're out of everything else. ;) Look towards the Bookend for the rap anchors.

P2 linked with the P3 bulge is an AMAZING pitch! 28 stars! Bomber Lumpy hands and fingers with some grovelling for dessert. Yum. I thought the 5.4 chimney was really fun - definitely climb it! Jun 20, 2016
I recommend combining P2 and P3. The belay atop P2 isn't very comfortable, and you can get a really good rest at the end of P2. I used a lot of nuts in P2 so I had enough gear remaining to do P3 without a problem.

FYI, a 70m rope got us down in one rappel. We reached the ends just as our feet reached the ledge. Be sure to pull your rope up the ramp behind you to help avoid it getting stuck in constrictions. Jun 12, 2016
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Wonderful route, particularly the very long and varied second pitch. Agree with the above comments about big gear not being needed. The biggest piece I used on the wide pitch was a green Camalot. Plenty of gear inside the crack. Wires extremely useful here, as with everything else we climbed at Lumpy.

As far as we could see, the second rap anchor on the west descent had been chopped (2 little shreds of webbing visible), and we replaced that. No offense intended if an accident occurred here or if there's some good reason why this was done, but if someone chopped an established rap anchor without replacing it, pretty weak sauce, I'd say. Sep 4, 2015
Awesome climb.
I led pitch 1 and would say it's not quite 5.8. Nice and steep, well-protected, long, and physical... but probably 5.7. Sep 17, 2014
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This climb was awesome! Chimneys normally really scare me, but P3 was fun. Plenty of holds in and around the wide crack. Also lots of smaller gear is available. I had nothing bigger than a number 3. I also loved P1.

We used Nick Wilder's descent, and it was great. One piece of beta: at the top of P3, you can exit climber's left onto a pointy summit or climber's right to a rounded summit. You can only see the rap chains if you summit to the climber's right. Once on this rounded summit, look west and you should see the chains.

The second rap station was in good shape as of this week. Jun 11, 2014
Nat Thiem
Boulder, CO
Nat Thiem   Boulder, CO
We did Nick's descent today and could not find the second rappel (though there were a few webbing scraps). I did not have webbing along, so I was not able to replace the rappel, but with a 70m rope one can almost make it to the bottom (with a short downclimb). The cracks do seem to like to catch the rope though. May 27, 2014
Ryan Stefani  
 
I can't add much other than a VERY firm second of Nick Wilder's descent instructions. They are spot-on. I wish I read them before we climbed it!

I did hear several parties talking about how "most people" don't do the third pitch. That saddens me. The third pitch might have been better than the crack pitch!

I agree with the guide book's original 8+, but I disagree with where: the P2 the crack is not an 8+. Maybe more like 8- or 8. The bulge, on the other hand.... Definitely Eldo/Lumpy 8+ for about 15 or 20'.

4 stars though. Wonderful climb! Jul 7, 2013
Freddy.Mondale
Boulder, CO
 
Freddy.Mondale   Boulder, CO
 
Led pitches 1 and 3 and was happy to have a #3 for the flaring chimney on p3. Group in front of us stopped at the slot just short of the summit and as a result totally missed the rap station on the other side. They were trying to rap the route but, not surprisingly, got their rope stuck deep in the flaring chimney of p3. Jun 19, 2012
Ammon  
I would have to agree with Dubois-this is one of Lumpy's finest (albeit few) 5.8 cracks, and the gear on P1 & P2 is sinker all the way. You could definitely sew this one up, with the possible exception of P3. P3 is about 150+ feet, awkward, but secure feeling.
MW is easily protected w/out a #3 Camalot, although there are a few spots for it if it makes you feel better to carry it. Jun 9, 2010
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I highly recommend ignoring the comments to rap off after the hand crack! Pulling the fist crack bulge into the offwidth/chimney section was super fun and well worth doing (I thought it was the crux of the whole climb, but well protected with a #4 BD C4). I continued on P2 past the bulge on to the nice belay ledge up on the left. Done that way P1 and P2 are both almost 60 m and full of fun climbing, and both have comfortable belay ledges (belaying by the horn at the top of the hand crack as the description here suggests would be far less pleasant). Then there is a short P3 easy chimney with a few interesting moves near the top followed by a fast, easy rap that deposits you right at the base of the classic Left Book climbs.

This route has a bit of everything. Stemming, jamming, offwidth, and chimney.... I just wish it were longer than 3 pitches! Jul 13, 2009
Avery N
Boulder, CO
Avery N   Boulder, CO
The original name of this climb was "The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel." Jun 25, 2009
- - -
 
- - -  
 
Splendid climb. Nick's descent beta is spot on too! The bolts you want to rap from (NW corner) at the top have chains, the other one's on the middle of the N side that you don't want only have rings. Jul 18, 2008
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.8
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This is my favorite climb at Lumpy to date. All three pitches are excellent. A single set of cams should be addequate as long as you take advantage of opportunities to place stoppers and utilize the fixed belay stations. A long piece of accessory cord and a hook will probably score you at least one peice of booty out of the bottom of the P3 chimney. May 26, 2008
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
P2 is not splitter, nor is it a handcrack. But if you are looking for an excellent climb with a little bit of everything, this is your climb. May 22, 2008
Phill T
  5.8
Phill T  
  5.8
Great overall climb. The third pitch should be renamed 'REI crack' based on the abundance of gear/water bottles hopelessly dropped into the abyss! Use the rap chains located NW of the summit (not the cave). It's a bit of a scramble to get to them. May 13, 2008
kirra  
Bolts/chain/quicklink visible from climber's left around northside of rockwall slightly below summit. Best to rap directly north facing rap station against rockface instead of off to east and free hang where rope seems to get hung up. We skipped ledge 15ft down and continued to a lower ledge inside tiny rock alcove. Added bright orange sling and additional ring to rap station slung on rock. Second rap got us down to easy scramble to trail. Linked P2 crack with offwidth roof to next stance. Recommend not to wear any Patagucci or delicate stuff after flared crack on P-2. Watch afternoon thundershowers (and hail) that arrive as predicted at 1pm. Get early start. New trail & parking nicely done. Jun 4, 2007
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
Easy West Descent - 60m rope only

From the very top, easily walk down the ramp 20 feet to the north, then scramble (4th class) west back into the chimney and cross over to some stout bolts on the west side of the chimney. One bolt is just visible from the summit. The bolts face north and have a chain but no rings. We slung the rope through the quicklinks.

Rap 15 feet to a ledge, and continue 80 feet more to a large boulder with another rap station hidden underneath. Use knots - you'll be near the end of the rope, but a 60m reaches fine.

Another 50' easy rap from there and you're on the ground with an easy walk back. Jul 30, 2006
David Champion
Centennial, CO
David Champion   Centennial, CO
Info on the east gully descent from Melvin's Wheel: If you rap the north anchors from the top of the third pitch (into the slot from which the east gully descent begins), scramble east down to the next rap anchor (slung rock), rap this anchor to the base of a tall free standing pinnacle (can't miss it), you will--as of June 24th, 2006--find a long section of orange webbing with two rap rings slung around a stout rock. WARNING: IF YOU RAP FROM THIS ANCHOR ON A 60M ROPE BE VERY CAREFUL--YOU WILL *NOT* REACH THE TREE-SLING ANCHOR VISIBLE FROM THIS POSITION. On a 60m rope you will end up about 15 short of the tree on easily downclimbable, but loose, terrain. BE CAREFUL! Perhaps it would be best to remove this anchor, or at least replace it with webbing of a different color because it is really ugly.

By the way, as spectacular as were the first two pitches of this route, the last pitch + east gully descent were equally, if not more, annoying. Rap after the second pitch (on a 60m rope) if you want to keep the pain-in-the-ass to fun ratio low. Jun 25, 2006
I did the first pitch yesterday and then rapped off. As I rapped, I noticed a bolt protected route directly beneath the bolts on Library Ledge. Does anyone know what this bolt protected route is and what it is rated? It looks like some awesome face moves! BTW the first pitch of Melvin's was GREAT! Jun 10, 2006
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
With H. McIntyre 5/21/06. This is the most enjoyable easy/moderate crack I've climbed at Lumpy. P1 defines the grade 5.fun and has the ultimate total couch belay. P2 is sustained at the grade but the pro is solid and adequate. May 22, 2006
Lee Willcockson
Denver, CO
Lee Willcockson   Denver, CO
Just did this climb yesterday, first two pitches were a lot of fun. Third pitch was alright, but we found the descent from the top to be rather cumbersome; we rapped off the bolts on the east side, scrambled down to the tree anchor and rapped off that, then scrambled to a sling anchor underneath a large slab in a wide crevasse, rapped, and scrambled the rest of the way. Anyone have a quicker way to get down? I would recommend bailing after the first two pitches just because the descent is so much easier. May 19, 2006
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
 
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
 
This route is about as good as it gets. I liked the first pitch a lot, too. I led the 3rd pitch and found the bulge awkward but not too bad. After moving into the wide gully, I cut hard left and up through a flared crack. This is not the standard route, is harder at 5.9, and a little mungy. Let me just say one more time, this route is GREAT! May 7, 2005
Great route. Not quite as nice as Pear Buttress, but fun with fairly sustained climbing at the grade. Aug 1, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.8
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.8
Climbed Melvin's Wheel yesterday. Every pitch is good with good pro. P2 reminded me of the first pitch of George's Tree-very fingery with decent protection. I sewed it up using small stoppers, #1 Metolius TCU/FCU and #2 Metolius TCU/FCU. A classic crack. Climb the right side of the fin in the alcove to the top and rap down a series of rappel anchors in the gully. Jul 12, 2004
Dustin Bauer  
 
Fun Fun Fun !!! no complaints here ran out the first pitch 5.6 the second pitch the thin crack but very well protected in my [opinion] and little exposure [considering] how much air's under your toes. Wouldn't do on the weekend though, very crowded route, [considering there is] sooooo much else to do at Lumpy in the this range and quality. Jun 19, 2004
This climb has a weird exiting pitch, go up the easy groove-chimney until it brings you into a cave with a flake in the middle. Climb up the right side of the flake and walk on top until you see the bolts. Your rope will likely get stuck after you rap. Jul 22, 2003
Regarding pro and the 2nd pitch: i thought it was easily protected with stoppers. This was not an easy pitch for me to lead, but I felt very comfortable slotting in medium and up stoppers along the way. No need for small ones. Jun 28, 2003
The nut/pin anchor thing describes wasn't there, but we rapped down a bit further to the east and scrambled off. Then walked around and it was good. If it wasn't snowing like mad today, I would have climbed the third pitch, but now it gives me an excuse to do this classic again!! Superb climbing. May 4, 2003
Spectacular climb. I agree the pro on pitch 2 is sorta tricky. I used several small nuts.

So, I got a little confused at the very top. As you make your way up the chimney on the 3rd pitch, you'll come to a large flat alcove-type place very near the top. You'll want to climb up to the right (east) side to get to the top with the rap rings. Although there may be rings on the left (west) side, I didn't see any. If you set your second belay at the slung horn just beneath the chimney, you can stretch a 60 m rope JUST BARELY to the rap rings at the top. Also, I recommend making a short rappel from the very top and then mostly downclimbing (easy) to the second rappel station at the slung chockstone. There's lots of chances to get your rope stuck if you continue the rappel to the ends of the rope. mike. Sep 16, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Several comments: 1. Bring a 60-meter rope. This lets you belay the first pitch from the ground and make it to the bolt anchor. With a 50-meter rope, you have to scramble up 30 feet to a tree for the initial belay. 2. With a 60-meter rope, you can also extend the second pitch through the roof and continue about 50 feet to a good belay stance on the left, just before the route becomes continuous wide grooves. This avoids the cramped belay at the horn below the roof. If you brought a #4 Camalot, you can use it at the roof (2nd pitch) and in the final wide grooves (3rd pitch). Jul 30, 2002
Brice W  
This is a classic climb. The finger/hand crack on P2 is flared, but it is fun to climb and takes gear well so you can sew it up. The chimney on P3 is not bad at all. Smaller cracks allow you to protect it well (though it is nice to have a #4 Camalot or equiv. to sew up the bulge as stated above), and the awkward section is not sustained. The climbing after the chimney is easy, but interesting. Jul 9, 2002
I climbed this route again for the first time in a few years. I was astonished at some bolts at the ledge at the end of the first pitch. Perhaps there was some previous discussion as to the necessity of these bolts. But the plentiful cracks and the slung flake would sway my opinion to thinking that they should never have been drilled. Jul 9, 2002
Don't skip this great route just because of the flaring chimney. It is possible to rappel from the slings at the end of the hand/finger crack on the second pitch using a single 60 meter rope. This will get you back the two bolt anchor on Library Ledge that is at the top of the first pitch. From here, you can rap to the big boulders on the ledge below where there is another rap anchor made up of two bomber stoppers and a piton connected by a chain. Look for it off to the left. This rappel will take you right back down to your pack where you'll discover that voracious chipmunks have chewed a hole in it. Jun 7, 2002
A light rack is all that is needed, a few cams in the 00, 0.1, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75 a set of nuts and a few larger cams 1, 2, and maybe a 3 off the belay above P3. I over-racked for this route when I did it last.

The west rap will run short with a 60 meter rope. However, there are some slings and rap rings slung around some boulders in the west gully at the end of the first rap (as of May 15, 2002) making for a short 50-foot rap to a walk off. May 16, 2002
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
That thing is the definition of a 5.8 Lumpy Splitter! Mar 25, 2002
I have to agree with Leo, the second pitch is cool, but the so called crack is shallow and not very consistent. [Definitely] a tricky lead for the level.... Mar 14, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Great climb, but the 2nd pitch hand crack is more like a hand flare/water groove. Don't expect tons of sinkers like the 3rd pitch of Pear Buttress or Country Club Crack. Mar 13, 2002
This has been one of my all-time favorite hand cracks on the ridge in my 6 years of climbing there. The second pitch is one of those that you wish could go on forever! Dec 13, 2001
I agree. It was a great climb with excellent rock. I did think that pro was more difficult to place on the first pitch than the second. I just let the third pitch run out. Jul 9, 2001