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Routes in The Bookmark

37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bellyflop T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead in Bed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Russ Raffa and Scott Kimball
Page Views: 2,680 total, 16/month
Shared By: justin dubois on May 7, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This awesome pitch is located in the gorgeous inset, left of Inside Straight and right of Virgin Spring. It's a brilliant, thin splitter that passes an overhang and the route continues up to the Library Ledge anchors (Melvin's). Bernard Gillett's book gives this pitch an "R" rating, which may be fitting, all the gear is small, the rock not so-travelled, and the crack a little weedy. But after watching J-dog piss on it, it looked pretty well protected. Nontheless, this pitch is a spectacular, spicy, exercise in slabbing,thin crack and rp-ing. Three stars may be a bit generous but it's sooo good and with traffic will clean up quickly. Enjoy!

Protection

Lots of small stuff. RPs and TCUs, [bring a full rack for up top]. Addendum: tricams may be useful.

Photos

SeaJellie
Ann Arbor, MI
SeaJellie   Ann Arbor, MI
1 or 2 stars out of 4, 11c. I didn't add these to the official tally, as this is my "top rope opinion."

The climbing movements were enjoyable, and you can rig a TR using a big boulder block next to library ledge. With this anchor you can belay next to the base of Inside Straight with a 60m rope if the climber does 10 - 15 feet of low 5th class climbing to get the rope within reach. Otherwise set a TR anchor lower than library ledge, or belay from the proper start of the climb. You can descend from the TR anchor via a 5.6 traverse/downclimb to the bolted belay on Bellyflop.

At the crux and the hang at the roof (5.10) there is a lot of lichen, dirt, friable holds, and grass in the crack. Not a good onsight lead for the marginal 11+ trad leader. There might be better locks and pro hidden in the crack under the grass. I agree with the guidebooks that it deserves an "R" rating on the pro and that it is not a four-star climbing experience, at least in its current condition.

Worth consideration of TRing if you're already in the area, have the time at the end of the day, and like Lumpy "cracks". Jun 27, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Tri-cams can be useful at the start. The gear gets better as you get higher. This is an awesome pitch marred only by a lack of traffic. Winter or spring are perhaps the best seasons for it since the plants growing from the thin crack aren't in "bloom". Mar 7, 2008