Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Chris Weidner, Patrick Vernon, 6/29/06
Page Views: 1,936 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jul 11, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Rhythm Method climbs the roof-capped, left-leaning corner just left of the 10b finger crack that begins the crux pitch of Between The Sheets.

Start in the corner direct (11- R), or further right as for Between The Sheets. In either case, place gear as high as possible in the 10b finger crack before stepping left into the corner. Wrestle leftward underneath the roof, and climb with difficulty up to the horizontal crack of Dead In Bed. Follow the hands to offwidth crack of Sidewinder straight above the corner, all the way to the top of the formation. The protection is just good enough to prevent a groundfall.

An onsight attempt of this route would be a serious undertaking.

Location Suggest change

Approach: attain the boulder-strewn terrace beneath Rhythm Method via the western descent gully between the Left Book and The Bookmark. Alternatively, one can climb the first two pitches plus a little more of Fantasy Ridge to reach the terrace.

Descent: scramble to the flat top of The Bookmark and locate a two-bolt rap anchor on an arete above the west gully. Rap 100 feet, then downclimb 15 feet of class 4, or make a second rap from slings around a boulder.

Protection Suggest change

1 each: #0 TCU - #3 TCU, RPs, small-medium nuts, #1 Lowe Ball.
2 each: #0.5 Camalot.
(For wide crack finish, bring 1 each: #0.75 - #3.5 Camalots.)

Photos

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