Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Chris Weidner, Patrick Vernon, 6/29/06
Page Views: 1,183 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jul 11, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Rhythm Method climbs the roof-capped, left-leaning corner just left of the 10b finger crack that begins the crux pitch of Between The Sheets.

Start in the corner direct (11- R), or further right as for Between The Sheets. In either case, place gear as high as possible in the 10b finger crack before stepping left into the corner. Wrestle leftward underneath the roof, and climb with difficulty up to the horizontal crack of Dead In Bed. Follow the hands to offwidth crack of Sidewinder straight above the corner, all the way to the top of the formation. The protection is just good enough to prevent a groundfall.

An onsight attempt of this route would be a serious undertaking.

Location

Approach: attain the boulder-strewn terrace beneath Rhythm Method via the western descent gully between the Left Book and The Bookmark. Alternatively, one can climb the first two pitches plus a little more of Fantasy Ridge to reach the terrace.

Descent: scramble to the flat top of The Bookmark and locate a two-bolt rap anchor on an arete above the west gully. Rap 100 feet, then downclimb 15 feet of class 4, or make a second rap from slings around a boulder.

Protection

1 each: #0 TCU - #3 TCU, RPs, small-medium nuts, #1 Lowe Ball.
2 each: #0.5 Camalot.
(For wide crack finish, bring 1 each: #0.75 - #3.5 Camalots.)

Photos

Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
That was a proud send Chris! Hope to be back on the rock in about a month or so.

-Pat Jul 14, 2006
Chris, can you elaborate on how this route established. When you say an onsite attempt at this route would be a serious undertaking it sounds like you might be saying the route was previewed or head pointed before the FA? Just trying to get a little more detail on this one. Looks like a proud line! Nice addition Brotha! May 19, 2008
Chris Weidner
  5.12b
Chris Weidner  
  5.12b
Rhythm Method was established as a headpoint: I toproped it twice (from the anchors on Between The Sheets) before leading it, placing all the gear on lead. Onsighting the route would be serious because the gear at the crux is very poor unless placed perfectly - and even then it may not hold. A very small, inobvious piece and a flared cam protect the crux moves. I hung on TR for awhile tinkering with different gear options before finding those two pieces. Thanks for the comment Bob. May 28, 2008