Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Muehlhauser and Sarah Spaulding, 1984
Page Views: 715 total · 3/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

The route Sojourn is a thin crack/face testpiece and feels a bit harder than the 11a rating given by the first ascensionist. It starts just to the right of Melvin's Wheel on a buttress separated by a 4th class gully. The route faces directly west making it a cool pitch for much of the day. Tiny gear placements make this a reasonable but somewhat serious lead. The two bolt anchor at the top of the pitch was installed by Topher Donahue in the late '80s. It is possible to scramble to the top of this cliff (via the gully) to set-up a top-rope on this very interesting line.

A direct finish straight up the obvious thin crack through the upper bulge was freed by Eli Helmuth in 2001 which bumps the rating up to 12a/b. #1 TCUs and #3 and #4 Camalots are helpful in doing this sustained and technical finish directly to the anchors. The original finish traversed right around the corner to easier ground.

Protection

RPs, very small cams, and a red tri-cam are helpful for the original line.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments